I've temporarily lost interest....

Stay tuned for more "Fork & Spoon," soon to return!

Pre-Thanksgiving Thoughts

For the first time in over five years, I will not be hosting Thanksgiving for my family. It's been here at Farmdale for the past three years since moving in, and prior to that, I'd always prepped in my tiny Detroit kitchen and finished off at my parents' house.

But this year, having finished off some recent renovation at their house, my brother and his wife have offered to host both sides of the family for Thanksgiving dinner. And I, being the ever-so-gracious person that I am, acquiesced.

But, I have not gone away without any assignments: my sis-in-law called me last night to ask me to make a couple of her favorites from my repetoire. So, this year, I will be making fresh cranberry sauce and a sweet potato mash topped with pecan streusel.

It's been a few years since I improvised those, so I hope I can replicate them this time around. Stay tuned!

Photo credit: worldcommunitycookbook.org

Top Chef 2, Episode 5, "Social Service"

Twelve contestants remain, having been spared last week from the chopping block due to a technicality. This week's episode began with some debate over the judges' decision not to send anyone home. Betty defended herself over and over that her mistake was due to a misunderstanding of the rules, while others felt it was an unfair call not to send her home. While cameraderie seemed fairly strong last episode, it appears that alliances have since been formed: Josie and Marisa have formed a close bond, while Betty and Mia--despite the fact it was Mia that called out Betty's indiscretion--seemed to ally themselves based on their similar culinary points-of-view.

Padma, joined by guest judge, Michelle Bernstein of Michy's in Florida and Social Restaurants in California, announced this week's Quickfire Challenge: to create a dish using "leftovers." Of course, not the leftovers you and I are thinking, but those random cuts of meat that are "left over" from butchering. The counter was piled with hearts and heads and tails and feet and all sorts of awful offal. Contestants with high end restaurant experience tended to be more familiar with such products and set off to devise their creations.

Mia turned back to her Southern roots and offered up Braised Pigs Feet with Cornbread, while Marcel went German and created a Sweetbread Schnitzel with a sauce containing pig's blood. Carlos prepared Sauteed Sweetbreads with herbs; Marisa served up Beef Cheeks over Papardelle; Frank presented an Arugula-Sweetbread Tart; Mike topped his Veal Tail and Tongue Stew with toasted bread and fried egg; and Betty made a Fish Head-Beef Cheek in Brodo.

Michelle Bernstein was pleasantly surprised by most of the contestants’ preparations, but still managed to identify two that failed to satisfy: Marisa’s Seared Lamb Kidneys had not been soaked or cleaned properly and, therefore, tasted terribly, while Josie’s Oxtail in Carrot Broth with Cracklings was simply too tough and inedible.

On the up side, Ilan’s Almond-Dusted Sweetbreads with Champagne Vinegar Sauce and Cliff’s Braised Oxtail were praised for their high quality and flavor. But, it was Sam’s Sweetbread Beignets flavored with Chinese 5-Spice that won this week’s Quickfire.

The next day, the contestants gathered at off-site for their next Elimination Challenge, at Social Restaurant in Hollywood. Their task: to create a six-course tasting menu for a party of 60, hosted by actress Jennifer Coolidge (best known for her kooky blonde roles in “Best in Show,” “Friends,” and “American Pie,” as Stiffler’s Mom). Again, the theme for this challenge was “leftovers,” but this time, it really meant leftovers: they were to create their menu from food that remained from the previous evening’s dinner.

The contestants were informed that they were to choose a partner and work in pairs—each pair would draw knives to determine which of the six courses they would be preparing. Responsible for Course 1 would be Frank and Marcel, an odd coupling to say the least. After being asked by Frank to partner up with him, Marcel likened the moment to “going to prom” with someone you don’t particularly want to go with. Course 2 went to Cliff and Sam, who showed some promise for a perfect partnership. Course 3 was designated to what seemed to be another odd coupe, Mike and Ilan. However, over the past few challenges, they had formed quite a friendship themselves. Mia and Betty drew Course 4, Marisa and Josie took on Course 5, and rounding out on Course 6 were Carlos and Elia.

As they raced back to the Social kitchen, Mia and Betty immediately tried to rally the troops and discuss the overall menu, but to no avail. The remaining teams set off on their own missions, without regard to what any of the other teams were doing. As soon became evident, their failure to plan caused a few bumps along the way.

Course 1: Not without some argument, Marcel and Frank put out a Salmon Duo, consisting of salmon tartare and salmon mousse. From proper butchering technique to whose sauce was better, these two butted heads all throughout the entire challenge. At the dining table, the judges criticized the textural combination of the two dishes, referring to it simply as “bad.”

Course 2: Working like a well-oiled machine, Cliff and Sam paired up a Seared Scallop and Foie Gras with Fig Puree, which drew raves from the entire room.

Course 3: The seemingly odd pairing of Mike and Ilan won over the crowd with their Seafood Paella topped with a Sauteed Soft-shell Crab.

Course 4: The judges panned the Duck Napoleon with Mashed Sweet Potatoes prepared by Mia and Betty, for their overcooked duck and unnecessary puff pastry.

Course 5: Josie and Marisa made a technical error by offering an intermezzo so late in the menu. They had prepared an “Awakening Trio” to cleanse the palate: Pineapple Salad, Apple-Fennel Salad, and Soup of Coconut, Lime, and Prickly Pear. The judges felt the two had completely missed the mark—the three dishes seemed disconnected and did anything but cleanse their palates. On top of this, their poor decision to offer a palate cleanser as a 5th course was simply a wrong move.

Course 6: Elia and Carlos served up a dessert trio, consisting of Pineapple Sorbet, Mascarpone-Phyllo Napoleon, and a Pomegranate-Orange Juice Shooter with Basil. In addition to criticizing the disconnectedness of the components, the judges also complained that the pomegranate juice tasted as if it had sat out for two days.

At the judges’ table, two teams were called out for their excellent preparations: Ilan/Mike and Cliff/Sam. Though the judges expressed some disappointment that the contestants had failed to use some of the better “leftover” ingredients—duck confit (one of my favorite things in the world!), purple artichokes—they proclaimed these teams’ dishes as the most superior. In the end, it was the combination of Ilan and Mike, with their paella and soft-shell crab combination that won the honors, and Ilan was singled out for the added bonus: to work with Michelle Bernstein in the upcoming South Beach Food and Wine Festival.

Called next to the judges table were the combinations of Betty/Mia, Carlos/Elia, and Josie/Marisa. On top of being unnecessary, Betty and Mia’s puff pastry was criticized for being undercooked—a pet peeve of Tom Colicchio. Carlos and Elia were admonished for their poor judgment in putting out three really bad desserts instead of using their time and resources to put together one really good dessert. Finally, Josie and Marisa’s failed attempt at an intermezzo garnered the most criticism—not only did they technically not cook anything, but the product they put out simply did not work. And for this lapse in judgment, the team of Josie and Marisa was told to pack their knives and go. In her exit interview, Josie railed and railed that she had the talent to make it to the end, but because of one bad judgment call, she was out. I guess we’ll never know.

Epic Bistro, Kalamazoo, Michigan

One of the reasons for my going to K'zoo this weekend instead of Todd coming home was the fact that he'd gotten tickets to see bluesy-rocky musician, Jonny Lang. As we approached Kalamazoo's State Theater Saturday night, we saw that the show had been postponed, due to Jonny's illness. The show is expected to reschedule for January, so we'll wait to see how that pans out.

Fortunately for us, that freed up the evening for us to enjoy a long, leisurely dinner, rather than breeze through our meal in order to make the show in time. We decided upon Epic Bistro, which was down street from the theater. We had noticed this chic, contemporary restaurant during a previous walk through downtown's outdoor pedestrian mall--exposed brick, rich wood paneling, Mission-style chandeliers. Throughout were multiple wine cases, featuring dozens of wines with which to enjoy a meal.

Not having made reservations, we were still seated fairly quickly. Granted, it was in a smaller room separate from the main dining room, but it was still just as nice. Our server, Lucas, brought us menus and the wine list, and we each decided to try the evening's "Bin 359" features: Todd, a 2004 Simonsig Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa, and I, a red 2004 Juan Gil Monastrell from Spain. I passed on trying the Sauvignon Blanc in favor of savoring my Monastrell. I know nothing about wines, but I know what I like. This was rich and spicy, with a strong fruity taste. Todd ended up ordering a glass of it himself, later during dinner.

Epic Bistro's menu is divided into four main sections: Small Plates, Soups/Salads, Wood Fired Pizzas, and Large Plates. We decided to order a few Small Plates and share them for our dinner: the Grilled Cumin-rubbed Lamb Chops, served with mango chutney and quinoa rice pilaf; a Redskin Potato Tart, with layered potatoes, spinach, artichoke hearts, provolone, and pesto in a flaky crust; Salmon Wellington, in a crisp puff pastry with shiitake mushrooms and a sun-dried tomato and caper butter; and Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, stuffed with bleu cheese, roasted peppers, and served with white balsamic vinaigrette and fresh peaches. Priced between $8.95 and $10.95, all of our selections were very good, with the exception of the Salmon Wellington. I was really excited by the concept, but execution left something to be desired. I'm not certain if this is indicative of all of the Wellingtons they prepare, but ours last night tasted rather fishy. We wondered if perhaps, because the fish was to be wrapped in pastry, that they used less desirable cuts than would be served alone.

We also tried the featured soup, a thick, creamy Seafood Chowder flavored with chorizo and chock full of potatoes and carrots. Unfortunately, whatever seafood was used was not clearly discernable, except, perhaps, crabmeat. It was good, but I've had better. Also available was a Tomato Cream Soup, and a handful of salads, including a Belgian Endive Salad with bleu cheese, honeyed pecans, and cherry compote. Rounding out the rest of the menu were wood-fired pizzas, including Thai Chicken and Roasted Portobello, and entrees from the "Large Plates" menu: Filet Mignon with truffle butter, Braised Lamb Shank, Grilled Duckbreast, and Sauteed Shrimp, Scallops, and Mussels with House-Made Linguini.

We were so full from our small plates that we opted out on dessert--a very rare occurrence, especially in my case. However, the menu featured a Scharffen Berger Chocolate Brownie with Port Syrup and Vanilla Ice Cream, and a Pistachio Bread Pudding with Spumoni Gelato and Caramel Sauce. I was so disappointed not to share at least one dessert, but for once, I realized my limits. Next time.

Salmon Wellington aside, Epic Bistro gets high marks for its very inspired menu and delicious food. On top of that, our service was almost impeccable, so I know that quality service does exist in Kalamazoo (in fact, Lucas let me take home a copy of the menu, which was very helpful in writing this review). The restaurant is part of the Millennium Restaurant Group, with sister restaurants throughout Kalamazoo and Portage. One of them, The Union, is right down the street--perhaps that will be on the list for my next visit.

For more information, visit www.millenniumrestaurants.com

Food Dance Cafe, Kalamazoo, Michigan

Breakfast was first priority upon arriving in Kalamazoo this weekend to visit Todd. I'd gotten up early Saturday and hit the road right away, without so much as a stop for coffee. He suggested Food Dance Cafe, where we had gone for breakfast during my last trip. The service was lackluster, but the food was tasty, so I thought I'd give it another shot. This time around: the service was lackluster, but the food was tasty. At least they're consistent.

Food Dance is located in downtown Kalamazoo--it's a very touchy-feely, granola, organic, all-natural kind of place, with exposed brick along one wall and murals of giant fruits and vegetables on the others. It's very bright and breezy, with high ceilings and exposed ductwork. The cafe prides itself on using local produce and baked goods, and guarantees the quality of its products--as well it should.

Unfortunately, despite the great food, service is unbearable. The last time we went, we waited at least 10 minutes for our server to bring the coffees we'd ordered. We waited so long that I just got up and poured two cups of coffee from the complimentary carafes that were in the waiting area. This time, I was still taking off my jacket when our server came asking for our drink orders. My coffee came fairly quickly, but I was never offered a refill until I had already finished my meal. Having frequented many hip, popular restaurants in Detroit, I'm pretty accustomed to inattentive servers--guess we're not very unique on this side of the state!

Poor service aside, the food was terrific. Todd ordered the Mexican Scramble, which were two eggs scrambled with "New Mexican" sausage (?), black beans, potatoes, onions, and cheese, then topped with ranchero sauce. I had the Woodland Omelette, with sherried mushrooms, green onions, and lots and lots of Swiss cheese. Each was served with crispy home fries and two thick slices of hearty rye bread.

Their menu offers many breakfast classics, from Julia's French Toast made from thick-cut challa, Blueberry Pancakes, Huevos Rancheros, and Fruited Waffles. On the lunch menu were grilled sandwiches like the Zydeco Crab Cake, Reuben Rhumba, and the Saltarello--pesto, roasted peppers, tapenade, artichokes, and provolone on grilled sourdough. It also features cold and open faced sandwiches, quesadillas, salads, burgers, and a great looking mac-n-cheese. The dinner menu features several appetizers, such as Bruschetta and Grilled Halloumi Cheese. Entrees include Sesame-Ginger Wild Salmon, Seared Niman Ranch Sirloin, Portuguese Fish Stew, and a vegetarian Moroccan Squash, with Israeli couscous, artichokes, chickpeas, and feta. Pastas, salads, burgers, and sandwiches round out the rest of the dinner menu. Desserts feature the Cat's Meow: baked flourless chocolate mousse (?) glazed with ganache; and the Sticky Nut Boogie Woogie: Plainwell vanilla ice cream with caramel, whipped cream, and almonds.

Overall, I don't think I could be disappointed with anything I could eat at Food Dance. The menu is creative, inspired, and inventive. Based on two separate experiences, however, I would never be able to commend the service. Inattentiveness is my biggest pet peeve, and our servers each time appeared to be experts. Also, I must comment on the prices. Our breakfasts yesterday cost $8.50 and $7.95 (excluding coffee), respectively, and lunch sandwiches were running $8-9. At dinnertime, sandwiche prices jump up to as high as $11.95! Dinner entrees run between $16 and $22. Granted, Food Dance prides itself on the quality, seasonality, and localness of its ingredients, which typically run higher in cost than the usual ingredients. I'm willing to look beyond that in exchange for a really good meal. However, I'll have to reserve final judgment for my next visit, and see whether service the third time is a charm or a bust.

For more information, visit www.fooddancecafe.com

Top Chef 2, Episode 4: "Less is More"

Episode 4 opened with the remaining twelve contestants ruminating on the growing pressure as the competition rolls on. Following Emily's elimination in last week's TGIFriday's challenge, everyone is recognizing that any one of them could go home at any time. There still seems to be a high level of cameraderie--Betty began this day by planting a kiss on the cheek of each of her male challengers, including her nemesis, Marcel. Four of the contestants--Ilan, Sam, Josie, and Cliff--seem to be coasting along, with Sam and Cliff winning previous Quickfires. From what I can recall, none of them have yet been called to the judges' table on an individual basis--and the times they had been called as part of a team, they were never singled out.

Padma, in another signature sexy outfit, announced this week's Quickfire Challenge: to create an amuse bouche. Loosely translated as "to amuse the mouth," an amuse bouche is smaller than an hors d'oeuvre, meant as a teaser for the meal to come--a chef's "calling card." Eyes began lighting up, as each devised their idea to impress the judges, including guest, Suzanne Goin of Lucques and AOC restaurants. Marcel, for one, knew exactly his direction: an oyster amuse with apples. Padma directed the contestants to begin shopping for their ingredients...but of course, there was a catch: they had to shop from the vending machines in the hallway outside the Kenmore Pro Kitchen! Armed with $10 in quarters, each contestant approached the machines, baffled as to what on earth they possibly could do with the sodas, chips, cookies, and sandwiches inside. Of anyone, Mike was expected to be the winner of this Quickfire, given his good ol' boy personality.

Overall, Goin seemed pretty impressed by what the contestants offered up. Betty prepared a Fromage Frittata and Elia, a Dorito Tostada (Goin joked that the word, "Dorito" sounded so much better coming from Elia). They cleverly transformed otherwise questionable ingredients into some very sophisticated dishes: Sam incorporated potato salad and pickles; Marisa used chicken Caesar Salad, apples, and potato chips; Cliff made use of banana pudding; and Marcel combined cracklings and lemon pudding (from a Hostess fruit pie!). Josie took on a current trend in restaurant technique by offering up a deconstructed amuse bouche--unfortunately, I missed what exactly it consisted of.

Goin identified the bottom two dishes: Mia's Twinkie with Caramelized Banana, which was good, but more dessert than amuse bouche; and Mike's Snicker-Cheeto-Cornut concoction, which looked more like an erect penis than a restaurant amuse. For the second challenge in a row, Mike's whatever attitude was called to question. At the top of Goin's list: Ilan's Deviled Egg with Crispy Salami and Fig Jam, Frank's Ham & Swiss Quiche with Mint Tea Shooter, and the winner of tonight's Quickfire: Carlos' Vegetarian Mini Loaf, featuring Squirt soda, sunflower seeds, and hard-cooked eggs.

Moving on to the elimination round, this week featured another team challenge. After drawing knives and dividing into four teams--Black, Red, White, and Orange--the contestants were advised of their next challenge: to create a three course meal for $100...that could not exceed 500 calories in total! They were to prepare an entree, a side dish, and a dessert to be voted upon by the kids at Camp Glucose--for lack of a better description, fat camp.

On the Black team: Frank, Betty, Marcel (visible discomfort, there); Red: Mia, Mike, Marisa; White: Ilan, Elia, Josie; and Orange: Carlos, Cliff, and Sam. Sam, being diabetic, felt confident his experience with watching his diet could give his team an advantage.

You could see everyone's wheels turning as they set off shopping. Marcel obviously forgot his audience when he suggested Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus. Frank quickly knocked some sense into his Black team when he suggested that nothing beats pizza as a kid favorite. On the Red team, Marisa the pastry chef suggested they attempt a chocolate fudge cake to draw the kids' votes.

When they returned to the kitchen, each team was greeted by a nutritionist who would observe and tally up the calories in each of their menus. The Red team prepared Barbecued Chicken Skewers, Cole Slaw, and Fudge Cake (480 calories); the Black team made a Sausage Pizza, Melon Skewers, and Meringues with Peanut Butter and Banana (440 calories); the White team made Chicken Parmesan, Vegetable Lasagna, and Berry-Yogurt Cheesecake (398 calories); and the Orange team made Spiced Turkey Meatballs, Corn, and Fruit Smoothies (454 calories).

The next day, the teams had to recreate their menus to be served to the kids at Camp Glucose. However, there seemed to be a little bit of departure from the recipes from the day before. Sam immediately observed that some of the teams appeared to be squeezing pretty freely on the squeeze bottles of olive oil. Betty, whose meringues had failed to set up the previous day due to her use of Splenda, tweaked her recipe a bit and reduced her eggs and replaced the Splenda with sugar.

At Camp Glucose, each team was to present their menu to the children, who would then vote on which dishes they wanted to try. The Orange and Red teams each received 5 votes, the White team got 7 votes, and the Black team won a whopping 15 votes! As the children and judges taste-tested the dishes, their reviews came flying: the cole slaw was unimpressive and underseasoned; the vegetarian lasagna was good, but "strange;" the smoothie was too sour; the pizza was an obvious favorite. The best review was not about the food, but rather came from one little girl who said she wanted to "marry the hot diabetic!"

At the judges' table, Padma, Tom, Gail, and Suzanne discussed how easy it is to make food taste good when you are free to use all the fat and sugar you want. So, this Elimination was definitely a challenge for the contestants. Their discussed turn first to the failures: the meatballs were like rocks, the chicken skewers were bland, and the smoothie was hardly considered by the kids to qualify as dessert. On the upside, the pizza was a standout success, and the cheesecake was by far the best dish of the day.

The Black team was called to the table first--they were the winning team, receiving the most votes and the best reviews. Frank, for suggesting the pizza, was named the winner of the challenge. He received Suzanne Goin's book, Sunday Suppers at Lucques, and was invited to collaborate with her on a future menu.

Next, the Orange and Red teams were called to the judges' table. Mike's commitment and professionalism were called out yet again, but at least this time, Mia came to his defense. As for the food, the texture of the Orange team's meatballs was criticized for being too hard, and the Red team's cole slaw for its lack of acidity and flavor.

Sam muttered an aside about his observations of the free-flowing olive oil, which set off a contentious discussion about rule bending While Sam refused to call out any one person in particiular, Mia chimed in with a comment about Betty's revised meringues. These revelations completely stumped the judges, who had no idea what to do.

Tom paid a visit to the kitchen, where the contestants awaited their fate. He raised a point about the accusations and the seriousness of some contestants' failure to follow the rules. Marcel, who was not directly addressed, immediately became defensive when the subject of the olive oil came up. Betty, who was singled out for her meringues, burst into tears while she explained that she misunderstood the rules. She thought, as long as they remained within the 500 calorie requirement, that they would be fine.

In good conscience, the judges could not come to a final decision. As a result, all of the contestants received a free pass on this challenge--while none of them would be told to pack their knives and go, they were to consider themselves "on probation." Later that evening, the contestants took up the matter again. Josie was visibly upset, arguing that it was not fair that certain contestants could fail to follow the rules and remain in the competition. Betty, again in tears, walked out of the room. Then there was Cliff, who sipped on a bottle of Pepto Bismol. Looks like the cameraderie of the group has been a bit shaken. Can't wait to see what happens next.

For judge and contestant bios, recipes, and photos, visit www.bravotv.com

Bon Appetit, December 2006

The much anticipated holiday issue of Bon Appetit arrived in the mail last week. As always, the December issue features menus for both Christmas and Hannukah and, as always, this year's offerings fail to disappoint.

There is a do-ahead Christmas Eve menu inspired by the flavors of New Orleans: Shrimp, Chicken, & Andouille Gumbo, Crab Cakes, and a Caramel Pecan Buche de Noel (I've always wanted to make one of these!). This is followed by a traditional Prime Rib Roast meal with all the trimmings: Yorkshire Pudding, Potato Gratin, Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots, and a Spiced Cranberry-Pear Tart (blech). Finally, a Mediterranean-inspired Hanukkah dinner featuring Roast Chicken with Dried Fruit & Almonds, White Bean Salad flavored with lemon and cumin, a Shredded Zucchini and Carrot Casserole with scallions and dill, and for dessert: Honey-Glazed Doughnuts with Pine Nuts and Raisins. The photo alone makes me want to convert to Judaism for the night...or eight, whatever the case may be (traditionally, fried foods are a staple of the Hanukkah menu to represent the number of nights a single lamp of oil miraculously lasted).

In addition, there is a spread on Christmas cookies which struck me as less-than-inspired: Pistachio-Cherry Mexican Wedding Cakes, dusted with powdered sugar; White Chocolate-Cranberry-Macadamia Cookies; and Chocolate Peppermint Stars. To make up for it, a lesson in chocolate truffle-making, including Bittersweet Chocolate Truffles, and a bizarre, but intriguing, Balsamic Truffle. There is also a brief discussion of the latest trend in chocolatiering: cocoa nibs, crushed bits of cocoa beans combined with smooth chocolate. Sounds like something I'll have to keep an eye out for.

Dorie Greenspan's "Tools of the Trade" offers her recommendations for essential appliances for throwing holiday parties: chafing dishes, multiple-compartment buffet servers, and the newest addition to my own arsenal of cooking appliances: the Maxim food warmer. For whatever reason, I'm completely obsessed with these types of serving ware. Maybe it's my inner caterer.

The magazine offers a number of gift ideas, such as the 12 Gifts of Christmas, which culminates in an $8,000 CornuFe' range, the "cook's version of a Bentley." Cookbook recommendations range from the Green Eggs and Ham Cookbook based on the Dr. Seuss classic to The Improvisational Cook, which shows readers how to take a basic recipe and tweak it into something more. Also, for me, there's The Kitchen Diaries, a chronicle of a year of cooking by Nigel Slater, whose autobiographical Toast made for a great read on my last trip home from London.

The "RSVP" section features a couple of good-looking recipes which I will have to remember: a New Orleans-inspired Osso Bucco (a guilty pleasure I have yet to move myself to cook due to the whole veal issue) and a 6-layer Coconut Cream Cake, one of my greatest dessert obsessions.

Anyway, lots to see and cook in the pages of this month's issue. Can't wait for Gourmet to arrive!

Chestnut Charlotte, Take 1

Okay, here's my first attempt at the ever-elusive Chestnut Charlotte. Searches on Google and Epicurious had pretty much turned up with nothing, so I've improvised, using what little knowledge I have of making charlottes. In retrospect, I think I should have used half the amount of chocolate as I did, but overall, though, not too bad of a first attempt.


CHOCOLATE-CHESTNUT CHARLOTTE

Cinnamon-Sugar Syrup:
1 c. water
1/2 c. sugar
2 cinnamon sticks

Chocolate-Chestnut Cream:
6 oz. semi-sweet chocolate (I used Ghirardelli baking bars)
1 9-oz. jar sweet chestnut puree
1/2 pint heavy cream

2 3-oz. packages lady fingers (the sponge-cake kind, not the crisp Savoiardi)

powdered sugar (optional)


Make syrup: In a small saucepan, combine syrup ingredients, and bring to a boil over low-medium heat. Stir frequently to melt sugar. Lower heat to a simmer and allow syrup to thicken. Remove from heat; cool to room temperature.

Make filling: Melt chocolate in a double boiler (metal bowl over a saucepan of simmering water). Allow to cool one or two minutes. Whisk in entire jar of chestnut puree until thoroughly combined.

In a separate, cold bowl with cold beaters, whip heavy cream until medium-to-stiff peaks form. Fold about 1/4 of whipped cream into the chocolate-chestnut mixture to lighten. Continue folding in the remainder, being careful not to deflate the cream.

Assemble: Line four, 8-oz. ramekins with plastic wrap, leaving enough overhang to cover the top of the charlottes. Line the bottom and sides of each with lady fingers, tearing pieces to fit, but keeping as many intact as possible (pack them in tightly, to keep filling from seeping through). Be sure to leave enough ladyfingers to top the cream, once filled. Brush ladyfingers generously with Cinnamon-Sugar Syrup.

Divide Chocolate-Chestnut Cream among the ramekins (it is possible that not all of it will be used--the rest is cook's treat!). Top filling with remaining ladyfingers and brush with Syrup. Enclose with plastic wrap and stack, using a fifth ramekin (or other weighty container) to stack on the top charlotte.

Refrigerate for at least four hours to allow charlottes to firm up. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired. Makes four servings.

If you have them, use real charlotte molds (small) for a more authentic presentation http://www.amazon.com/CHARLOTTE-STAINLESS-STEEL-Matfer-Bourgeat/dp/B00070M7F4

Top Chef 2, Episode 3, "Low Rent, High Style"

As the contestants gathered in the Kenmore Pro Kitchen for this week's Quickfire Challenge, Padma announced that, although most of the contestants were accustomed to cooking in a fine dining environment, this Quickfire would require them to cook for the "Man on the Street." They were tasked with creating an original ice cream flavor that would be "road tasted" later at the Redondo Beach Lagoon.

While a few of the contestants were obviously thrown off, most of them were quick to accept the challenge. They spent the next two hours and forty-five minutes creating three quarts of ice cream each, and transported them to Redondo Beach to be judged by the passers-by. Ilan's affinity for breakfast flavors inspired him to attempt a Bacon and Waffle Ice Cream, which was surprisingly well-received by the crowd. Betty, who showed a little more of her good showmanship, pushed her "Redondo Berry" concoction, while Josie chose a perfect foil for ice cream--Peach Cobbler--as her signature flavor. Michael called upon Elvis for inspiration, creating a Peanut Butter-Banana Ice Cream. The bottom vote-getters included Emily, with her Lavender and "Calming Chocolate" Ice Cream, Marisa's Vanilla-Peanut Ice Cream, and Marcel's Avocado-Bacon Ice Cream (which was universally panned). Marcel was pompous, as usual, implying the "general public" wasn't sophisticated enough to appreciate his creation. At the top was Carlos, who turned to avocados with his Avocado with Marshmallow and Vanilla Ice Cream, acknowledging that their natural creaminess would preclude the need for eggs, which would require valuable time to cook. Sam, who, incidentally, is diabetic, charmed the crowd with his movie star looks and his Ginger Snap-Citrus Ice Cream. The winner of tonight's challenge, though, was Cliff, with his Crunchy Cookie and Marshmallow Ice Cream. For the second week in a row, Cliff would be immune to elimination.

Next came the Elimination Challenge, featuring guest judge, Stephen Bulgarelli, from the TGIFriday's family of restaurants. Weirdly, I've known Bulgarelli since elementary school--his younger sister, Jill, and I were in the same class since Kindergarten! Such a strange, small world. Anyway, this week's Elimination Challenge was to recall a favorite dish from childhood and update it for adults. The winning creation would be featured on the menu at TGIFriday's restaurants across the country. There was a VERY apparent disinterest among the fine-dining chefs, such as Marcel and Emily, who claimed, "It's not my style," explaining that she'd only ever worked in 4-Star establishments. Even Ilan and Sam seemed less than thrilled, but at least they accepted the challenge willingly. Their recipes would be taste-tested later that day by the men at the South Pasadena Fire Department, the quintessential Everyman.

It was immediately revealed that Mike, who had previously worked at TGIF earlier in his career, would receive no special treatment--good or bad. Regardless, he was confident that his Everyman lifestyle would inspire him to win this challenge.

Ilan created a fantastic-looking Bacon-Smoked Corn side dish, which I may end up borrowing myself. Josie looked to her Asian roots with Barbecued Beef Skewers, while Elia went south-of-the-border with her Fish Tacos. Carlos borrowed from Southern cuisine with his Chicken-Fried Shrimp, and Mia went the comfort food route with Mamma Mia's Meatloaf. Marisa stuck with what she knew, dessert, and created a Strawberry Crisp with Orange Caramel, which the judges proclaimed "awesome."

Marcel hit a snag with his Pork Chops with Mashed Potatoes and Cabbage and Onion Rings, when the deep fryer failed to come to temperature. All the while, he pissed and moaned to no end, blaming the previous user for lowering the temperature. This annoyed the rest of the contestants, with Betty reacting the most vehemently. She called Marcel a "selfish, self-centered, egotistical bastard," to which Marcel reacted completely astonished and appalled. It set of a heated conflict between the two, which was quelled when Betty acknowledged that it was distracting Sam, who was preparing his own creation for the judges.

Sam remained completely focused, creating a unique, vegetarian option: Summer Fruit Salad with Spicy Chimichurri. This was proclaimed "delicious" by the judges, and placed him in the Top 3. Cliff, with his Adult Fish Sticks and Mac-n-Cheese (featuring smoked provolone, gouda, and maple-smoked lardons), landed him at the top, as well. Rouding out the Top 3 was Betty, who hit a snag of her own when the griddle failed to come to temperature. She offered up a Grilled Cheese with Portobello-Roasted Red Pepper Soup (hmm, sounds strangely reminiscent of a very recent post on this blog, no?). In the end, it was Betty, for the second week in a row, who was the winner of this week's Elimination Challenge.

Next to the judge's table were the Bottom 3. Mike's Cheesesteak Sandwiches with Onion Rings were unanimously slammed by the judges--they were greasy, sloppy, overcooked, and completely lacking in flavor. Things actually got a little tense when Mike attempted to defend his creation, causing the judges to question his attitude and his commitment to quality. "How do you screw up a steak sandwich?" was their collective query. Frank, who went the "conceptual" route, creating a bizarre Mushroom Fantasy Salad. Inspired by his daughter's love for Alice in Wonderland, this salad featured a small village of cottages and trees made with mushrooms. Tom wondered if his fantasy was drug-induced, and Gail thought she had stepped into Smurfland. While they appreciated the thought behind it, he judges called the dish "confusing" and "impractical," and scolded that "Food is for eating!" Finally, there was Emily and her Super Slammin' Surf & Turf, which was deemed "inedible," over-salted, and overcooked. She admitted that she was thrown off by the challenge, and her nerves caused her to completely miss on the seasoning. In the end, this mistake caused Emily the challenge, and she was asked to pack her knives and go.

Gourmet, November 2006

The November issue of Gourmet arrived last week and, just like Bon Appetit, features its annual Thanksgiving menus. As has become customary with both magazines, this issue offers not only a traditional Thanksgiving menu, with Roast Turkey and Gravy, roasted Brussels Sprouts with Shallots and Wild Mushrooms, a gratin of roasted vegetables, and a Caramel Pumpkin Pie, but also a pared down Menu for Four, including a Turkey Roulade with Cider Sauce, Roasted Kholrabi and Butternut Squash, and Chocolate-Cranberry Cakes for dessert.

In addition, the issue includes an entire section dedicated to the all-important side dishes which, in many eyes, "make" Thanksgiving. I've been searching for the perfect side dish myself, since Thanksgiving duties this year have fallen upon my brother and his wife. It'll be the first time in three years that I won't be hosting the holiday at my house, but I'm at least going to bring a side dish. There's a great looking Butternut Squash and Creamed Spinach Gratin, which I will most likely try. In addition, there's Red-Wine Braised Cabbage with Onions, Green Beans in Ginger Butter, and a very interesting Chestnut-Potato Puree.

There's also a section on desserts, with recipes for Rum-Raisin Apple Pie, Macadamia Coconut Tart (which I may consider for the Tiki Party I eventually plan to throw one day), and a very tasty-looking S'more Pie (mmmmmmm!). I will probably bring a dessert to my brother's, as well--more than likely, it will be a Sweet Potato Bundt Cake with Brown Sugar Icing, which was the hit of my Southern-themed Thanksgiving Dinner five or six years back.

Grown Up Grilled Cheese and Tomato Soup

It was kind of a hectic week and even more hectic weekend, so I decided to wind down today by making a cold-weather standby, Tomato Soup. This, I typically pair with a "grown-up" grilled cheese, made with crusty multigrain bread and really good cheese.




FIRE-ROASTED TOMATO AND PORCINI MUSHROOM SOUP

4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 red onion, minced
olive oil
salt & pepper
1/2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
1/2 c. boiling water
2 bay leaves
2 28-oz. cans crushed fire-roasted tomatoes
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 qt. roasted vegetable stock

In a large stock pot, sautee garlic and onion in olive oil, until onion is translucent. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, soak porcinis in boiling water until softened. Add with soaking liquid to garlic and onion. Add bay leaves and allow to simmer 5 minutes.

Add tomatoes; simmer 15 minutes.

Remove bay leaves and puree soup with a stick blender; alternately, pour soup into a food processor, pulse until desired consistency, then return to cooking pot.

Stir in vegetable stock, return bay leaves, and simmer for 20-30 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper.

Serve with:

"GROWN-UP" GRILLED CHEESE

For each serving:
2 slices multigrain, rye, or bread of your choice (just not white bread!)
olive oil
salt & pepper
your favorite cheese (I typically use Brie, fontina, or smoked mozzarella)
baby spinach or arugula

Brush one side of one slice of bread with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then place oiled side down in a non-stick pan or grill pan over medium heat. Top with cheese and baby spinach, then remaining bread slice. Brush outside with olive oil. Grill until cheese begins to melt and underside of sandwich is golden. Flip, and grill until second side is golden. Slice in half diagonally for easy dipping into soup.

Top Chef 2, Episode 2

Tonight's episode began with a 4:30am wake-up call from Chef Tom Colicchio. The contestants were to begin their day with a trip to the American Fish and Seafood Market in LA, where they would purchase the key ingredient for this week's Quickfire Challenge: Sushi. Immediately upon learning the challenge, most of the contestants looked like they were ready to throw up. Not from the thought of sushi in general, but rather the challenge of making sushi, which many were unprepared to do.

Tonight's guest judge for the Quickfire was Chef Hiroshi Shima, Executive Chef of Kitana Restaurants (as in the one in Royal Oak?). He was very impressed with Ilan's Abalone Sashimi, deeming it "very fresh" and "alive." Elia's Mackerel Rolls with Olives and Salmon Roe were unique and enjoyable. Unfortunately for Mia, her Salmon Hand Rolls were "not appealing," and looked more like cigars than sushi. But tonight's winner of the Quickfire Challenge was Cliff, with his Hama Hama Oyster Sashimi with Ginger and Soy. Cliff received immunity for the upcoming Elimination Challenge.

The Elimination Challenge, featuring guest judge and celebrity chef, Ming Tsai, was to prepare, as a team, a tasting menu for Project by Project, a not-for-profit dedicated to combatting hunger in the Asian-American Community. The contestants drew knives and divided into two teams: Team Vietnam and Team Korea. Each team was to prepare one hot dish and one cold dish, using flavors of their respective countries, and would be judged not only on their food, but also their ability to work as a team.

Team Vietnam--Carlos, Mia, Josie, Betty, Emily, Sam, and Michael--immediately sat down to craft their menu. They would be using traditional flavors, including cilantro, lime, and mint. Josie, who had previous experience working for a Vietnamese chef, was selected team leader, and suggested the team tackle a traditional Vietnamese Pho noodle soup, with a twist.

Team Korea--Marisa, Cliff, Ilan, Marcel, Otto, Frank, and Elia--discussed their menu, but not before indulging in a little Sangria. Their menu would obviously include a Korean barbecue, and feature flavors of two "chees": kim chee and lychee.

With a designated team leader, Team Vietnam appeared to work like clockwork. They spent their budget of $500 on seasonal ingredients, including watermelon, cucumber, and basil. They ended up preparing three dishes: Summer Rolls with Pickled Watermelon and Chili Aioli, Pork Pho with Carrot “Vermicelli,” and a Cucumber-Aloe “Refresher” with Ginger-Basil Syrup.

Team Korea did not seem to mesh at all. This stemmed from a controversial judgment call by Otto, who realized immediately after leaving the market that they had neglected to pay for a case of lychees, which was sitting on the bottom of their cart. He mentioned it only in passing, and was heard only by Marisa. She called it to the attention of her teammates and, ultimately, Chef Colicchio. After questioning Otto, Chef ordered him to return the “hot” lychees immediately to the market. The team worked for nearly an hour without one of their members, but still managed to turn out a great-looking menu: Braised Pork with Kim Chee and Sticky Rice and Jasmine Tea Panna Cotta with Tapioca and Lychees.

At the Project by Project benefit, the teams competed for customers in a “walk-around” tasting. Team Vietnam’s Betty shined, engaging the guests and selling her team’s creations. Team Korea, meanwhile, continued to fluster, although their Braised Pork did garner enthusiasm.

At the judges’ table, Tom, Gail, and Ming discussed the merits of each dish. While Team Vietnam’s Cucumber Refresher received tremendous kudos, the Pork Pho was determined to be too dry, and the Summer Rolls went completely unmentioned. They LOVED the Korean-Braised Pork dish, deeming it “superior” to the Pork Pho, but HATED the Panna Cotta for its completely wrong texture. Ming Tsai referred to it as a “hockey puck.”

For its near-perfect execution as a team, Vietnam was named the winner, with Betty singled-out as the winner of the challenge. She received a limited-edition Kyocera sushi knife as her prize. Korea, with its disjointed team dynamic and inability to work together, was named the losing team. A lengthy “he-said-she-said” debate between Marisa and Otto ensued over the lychee incident. The team completely fell apart, with fingers pointing every which way. Only Ilan and Frank refused to take sides and lay blame.

Ultimately, in a show of guilty good sportsmanship, Otto offered to bow out of the competition. Without batting their collective eyes, the judges accepted his resignation, and asked Otto to pack his knives and go. It was a dramatic finish to a dramatic challenge, and highlighted the importance of integrity in the competition and the value of teamwork and responsibility.

A Little Tuesday Indulgence....

It was a long day today--a good day overall, just busy. And then at the last minute, got an assignment that I needed to get done before walking out the door. I had all kinds of plans to rake the lawn, go grocery shopping, make a nice dinner.... Unfortunately, I got home a little later than normal, then got sucked in to listening to the rest of the 1st Anniversary broadcast of Martha Stewart Radio's "Whatever with Alexis and Jennifer." I've become completely obsessed with those two crazy chicks, that I don't know what I'm going to do when I eventually lose my Sirius Radio access.

Anyway, there went my plans for raking, as it got too dark, so I skipped to the next task, grocery shopping. With midterms last week, I hadn't had a chance to go shopping, so the pantry was pretty bare all last week. I could barely scrape anything together, except for the risotto I wrote about a couple of posts ago. I needed to pick up a few staples--OJ, eggs, cheese, canned San Marzano tomatoes (okay, one indulgence)--but my main objective was to scrounge something for tonight's dinner.

Because I would again be spending the next two nights in class (and, therefore, would end up with a dinner of sesame crackers or something else otherwise unsatisfying), I decided I would indulge a little and make some mashed potatoes, which I had been craving for some time (for the record, my recent dinner at Lily's Seafood in Royal Oak had a side of yummy Mashed Potatoes with Mushroom-Stout Gravy, but it was just a wee order and just barely satisfied my craving).

Anyway, tonight's mashed potatoes couldn't be just any mashed potatoes. They were

SCALLION MASHED POTATOES WITH BUTTERMILK AND GORGONZOLA

1-1/2 lbs. red skinned potatoes, scrubbed, skin on
6 scallions, sliced
2 tsp. olive oil
3/4 c. buttermilk
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/4 c. gorgonzola cheese (I used my current obsession, gorgonzola dolce)
Salt & pepper, to taste

In a medium saucepan, cover potatoes with water and cook, covered, over medium heat until a knifepoint can be inserted easily into potatoes (approximately 30 minutes). Drain.

Meanwhile in a separate frying pan, sautee sliced scallions in olive oil until tender.

In a large measuring cup, warm buttermilk and butter approximately 45 seconds, until butter is melted. Add gorgonzola and allow to soften in the warm milk and butter mixture. With a rubber spatula, stir mixture until gorgonzola is well incorporated.

Mash potatoes in a medium bowl. Add scallions, then milk-butter-cheese mixture, little by little, stirring with a rubber spatula until desired consistency (it is possible that some of the milk-butter-cheese mixture will remain). Season with salt and pepper. Serve.

Makes 4 side servings or 2 very indulgent single servings.

Top Chef Season 2 Premiere

Sorry for my delay in posting this, but blogger.com was more like clogger.com last night, after the many hits the "Blogging Project Runway" site probably received after last night's season finale.

Last night was the premiere of "Top Chef" Season 2, complete with fifteen new contestants and a new host, Padma Lakshmi. Every single one of this season's contestants are actually employed as cooks or chefs, and all but four received formal culinary education. It looks like an interesting crop of individuals, with varying degrees of experience and, more importantly, personality. I'm looking forward to another fun season.

Some might recognize Padma Lakshmi her many appearances on Food Network. She's also a cookbook author, actress, and television host. Returning to the judges table are Tom Colicchio, chef/owner of Craft restaurants, and Gail Simmons, manager of "special projects" at Food & Wine magazine. Season 1 champion, Harold Dieterle returned as a guest judge. He doesn't seem to have changed much from last season--still cute and low key. He did offer up some decent feedback (e.g., useless garnish = BAD), having been on the other side of the judge's table himself. Following the direction she gave to Season 1's eliminated contestants, the robotic former host, Katie-Lee Joel, has apparently packed her own knives and gone.

The premiere episode began with the show's signature "Quickfire Challenge," in which the contestants are charged with creating a themed dish within a twenty-minute time constraint. The winner of the Quickfire receives immunity from the "Elimination Challenge" later in the show. Last night's challenge required the contestants to create a flambee dish, using any ingredient in the pantry. The winner of this challenge was Sam, who has the distinction of being the youngest-ever Executive Chef in New York, with his Flambeed Shrimp.

The Elimination Challenge involved a"mystery basket" of ingredients that the contestants had to craft into a tasting menu that would be judged by their peers. They divided into two groups, each with its own mystery ingredients, and in two hours, turned them into dishes to be judged by the opposite group. Then, the top two and bottom two from each group would face the main judges at the dining table.

The first group's ingredients included escargot, American cheese, artichokes, limes, and peanuts. Each of the chefs then headed off individually to create their submissions. At the top were Ilan's Escargot with Cheese Sauce and Elia's Escargot and Artichoke with Butter Sauce; at the bottom were Carlos's Artichoke Potato Pancake w/ Escargot and Suyai's Braised Artichoke & Potato with Escargot.

The second group's ingredients included frog legs, chicken livers, peanut butter, eggplant, and corn flakes. At the top of this group were Mia's Chicken-Fried Froglegs and Betty's Froglegs with Chicken Liver Cake; at the bottom were Marcel's Frogleg Lollipop and Otto's Froglegs & Chicken with Peanut Sauce.

Ilan, a 24-year-old line cook from New York City, was the winner (for his winning recipe, visit www.bravotv.com). Oxford, England-born Suyai, unfortunately, was asked to pack her knives and go.

I'll do my best to provide weekly updates on the results of each episode. I'll also add my own thoughts on each of the contestants as the competition goes on. There wasn't much chance to see their personalities come out just yet, but I'm sure there will be much to see soon enough.

For more information, including contestant bios, recipes, and judges' blogs, visit www.bravotv.com

Monday Blahs

Had the Monday Blahs today. It's gray, and cold, and generally depressing outside. Plus, I have a Finance midterm on Wednesday, so the next couple of nights will be dedicated to studying. So for dinner, I turned to a favorite comfort food, risotto. Since it's been some time since I've made a decent supermarket run, I raided the pantry to see what I could concoct with a few basic staples. The result:





PORCINI & SUNDRIED TOMATO RISOTTO

1/2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
1 oz. sundried tomatoes
2 c. boiling water
1/2 qt. vegetable stock
1 large shallot, minced
olive oil
salt & pepper
1 c. Arborio rice
1/4 c. grated Parmigiano Reggiano

In a large measuring cup, pour boiling water over porcinis and sundried tomatoes to rehydrate. Set aside for 10 minutes, until vegetables are plump. Remove vegetables from liquid, slice, and set aside. Add mushroom/tomato water to simmering vegetable stock in a small saucepan.

In a separate saucepan, sautee shallots in olive oil until softened. Add porcinis and sundried tomatoes and sautee; add salt & pepper to taste. Add rice and stir to coat each grain with olive oil.

Begin adding simmering broth to the saucepan, one cup at a time, stirring rice and vegetables frequently. As liquid evaporates, add more broth, stirring. Continue this process for approximately 10-15 minutes, until rice is tender and most of the broth has been absorbed (it is possible that you may not use all of the simmering broth). Risotto should have a creamy texture.

Stir in cheese and serve immediately. Makes approximately 2 servings as a meal or 4 side servings.

Usually, I add about a cup of white wine to the sauteeing vegetables and rice, before adding stock. However, all I had on hand was a Riesling that someone brought to a past dinner party, which I was afraid would be too sweet. The risotto tasted fine without wine, but it would have made a nice addition.

Mussel Men

On "Barefoot Contessa," Ina Garten always welcomes her husband, Jeffrey, home to the Hamptons after a long workweek in Manhattan, with his favorite dinner, Roast Chicken. Today, with Todd coming home from Kalamazoo for a doctor's appointment tomorrow, I decided to welcome him home with one of our favorites, Steamed Mussels. I got a great buy on some beautiful mussels at Holiday Market in Royal Oak, for $3.99/lb.

STEAMED MUSSELS

3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 shallots, minced
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
3 plum tomatoes, seeded, cored, & diced
2 c. white wine
4 Tbsp. parsley, minced
2 lbs. mussels, cleaned & scrubbed
1 Tbsp. butter, cold
Lemon wedges

Heat a large pot with high sides over a medium flame. Add olive oil, then shallots. Sautee until softened. Add red pepper flakes and tomato.

Add wine and parsley to pot; bring to boil. Add mussels and place lid on pot. Allow to cook for 4 minutes, shaking pot frequently to allow mussels to cook evenly. Mussels should open up when cooked; remove any that remain closed, and discard.

Remove cooked mussels from pot, allowing broth to continue simmering. Add cold butter and swirl, to form a sauce. Squeeze juice of 1/2 lemon into sauce.

Serve mussels in a deep dish; pour sauce over and serve with crusty bread for dipping.

I served mine over prepared linguini--next time, I'll follow Todd's suggestion to finish cooking the pasta in the simmering broth to infuse it with more of that great flavor.

Photo credit shellfish.org.uk

It's a Date!

A few weeks ago, several of my cousins were in town for a family wedding. It'd been quite a while since most of us had been together, so I jumped at the chance to plan a pre-wedding get-together, to get us all caught up.

I wanted to do something just a little bit different than expected, so I planned a "make it-buy it" Mediterranean-themed menu, with flavors from Greece, Italy, and the Middle East.

On the "make-it" side: spanakopita (spinach-feta triangles), oven-baked pita chips, chili-cumin spiced almonds, tzatziki, sun-dried tomato/basil dip (a failed improvisation--one day, I will post a different recipe worked out pretty well for me in the past), and mini white pizzas (greek pitas brushed with olive oil, topped with four cheeses and shredded basil), and Date Bars.

On the "buy-it" side, hummous, baba ghanoush, falafel, vegetarian stuffed grape leaves, all from Sahara Restaurant in Oak Park, and baklava from Kashat Market (I need to write about that shop sometime--wonderful!).

One of my favorite things that turned out was the "make-it" dessert, Date Bars. I'm posting the recipe here for future reference. They had a crumbly, buttery crust and a sticky sweet, filling, and they were super easy to make. Admittedly, I did overbake them so the edges got a little hard. I simply cut the bars out from within the edges, and they were just fine--the crunchy edges became "cook's treat."


DATE BARS
(from Mary-Sue Millikan & Susan Feniger, aka Too Hot Tamales)

2 1/2 cups (1 pound) pitted and chopped dates
1 cup water
Scant 1 cup sugar
1/3 cup lemon juice
3 cups rolled oats
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 3/4 cups brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups unsalted butter, melted

In a medium saucepan, combine the chopped dates and water. Over medium-low heat, bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Add the sugar and lemon juice and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring back up to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Thoroughly butter a 9 x 13inch baking pan with 2 inch sides and line the base of it with parchment paper.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, combine the oats, flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt. Mix together well with a wooden spoon, then drizzle in the melted butter and stir to moisten evenly. Spread 1/2 of this crumb mixture in the base of the pan, then cover with an even layer of the cooled date mixture. Top the date layer with another layer of the crumb mixture and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the top is golden and bubbly, and the edges have begun to caramelize. Cool on a rack, to room temperature. Run a knife around the inside edge of the pan to release, and cut into 12 squares.

In Search Of...Chestnut Charlotte

It's an enigma, wrapped in mystery, enshrouded in obscurity. Ever since that fateful night, a year and a half ago, when I was not allowed to order dessert following dinner at Ferndale's Via Nove restaurant, I've been on a fruitless quest for the star dessert of its specials menu that night: Chestnut Charlotte. Because our meal had grown long and leisurely, my dining companions were in a mad rush to head across the street to Soho for a cigarette, leaving my yen for dessert unfulfilled.

I received promises that we would soon return, so that I could satisfy my craving for the sweet treat. Alas, we have yet to return, and the Chestnut Charlotte remains ever-elusive (mind you, since we haven't been back, I don't know that it still may be on the menu...but that detracts from my drama). Since that night, I have searched every restaurant menu, with a secret hope that I might finally catch a glimpse of this dessert, to no avail. My search for a recipe in cookbooks and online has likewise proven unsuccessful.

So today, one and a half years later, I pledge that I will labor to devise my own recipe for Chestnut Charlotte, so that I may finally know the beauty and wonder that have evaded me for so long. Stay tuned, readers, for periodic updates on my quest.

Bon Appetit, November 2006

The new Bon Appetit arrived in the mail today. It's their annual Thanksgiving issue, which I look forward to each year. This year's edition offers recipes and techniques for varying scales of Thanksgiving celebrations, from a grand feast to a pared-down intimate gathering, from a "make it/buy-it" preparation strategy to a potluck at someone else's home.

It also provides a few resources for organic and heritage turkeys, which I struggled to find last year. Although I haven't quite settled on making a turkey this year (I may do a brunch, in which case I may tackle a traditional southern ham), I still find plenty of delicious ideas for appetizers, sides, and desserts for other times of the year (like Dorie Greenspan's "Best Chocolate Chip Cookies" on page 87). Check out http://www.epicurious.com/bonappetit/ for more.

Salad May Be Hazardous to Your Health

Well, if you happened to make the salad recipe I posted the other day, you can probably go ahead and dump it in the trash. Right on the heels of the recent spinach scare, lettuce has just joined the rising crop of vegetables tainted with the dangerous E. coli virus. Click the links for more.

http://www.cnn.com/2006/HEALTH/09/15/tainted.spinach.ap/index.html

http://today.reuters.com/news/articleinvesting.aspx?type=bondsNews&storyID=2006-10-08T232102Z_01_N08213687_RTRIDST_0_HEALTH-LETTUCE.XML

Photo credit astrographics.com

Julie & Julia

I recently finished reading Julie & Julia by Julie Powell, a wonderfully amusing memoir of a woman who embarks on a mission to cook every recipe in Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking in the year before she turns 30. She lives in a rundown Queens apartment, works a dead-end government job, and has hit a wall in terms of her life. From her first success with Potage Parmentier (potato soup) to her final masterpiece, Reine de Saba (chocolate cake), Powell attacks every recipe with fervor, learning how to extract marrow from beef bones, searching the city far and wide for obscure ingredients, and generally, becoming comfortable with herself and her capabilities.

During her mission, Powell updated a growing legion of fans via her highly successful blog, The Julie/Julia Project (see link at right to her follow-up, "What Could Happen?"). On learning of Child's death in 2004, Powell commented in her blog,

"I have no claim over the woman at all, unless it's the claim one who has nearly drowned has over the person who pulled her out of the ocean."

Powell is now in the middle of a media tour to promote her book, which has recently been released in paperback.

Salad Days

In an earlier entry, I mentioned the salad I had enjoyed during several dinners at Mia Francesca in Chicago. It was a green bean salad, with green beans, crumbled gorgonzola, and balsamic vinaigrette. I've devised my own version and served it several times at home, and it's always been a hit.

To prepare, trim the ends from young green beans, preferably French haricot verts. Blanch in simmering, salted water until bright green and firm to the bite. Remove from boiling water and plunge immediately into a bowl of ice water to set the color and stop the cooking process. Remove from water and dry between tea towels. Assemble in a single direction on a serving plate. Sprinkle with finely diced, cored & seeded plum tomato. Dress with a basic vinaigrette of balsamic vinegar whisked with a dab of Dijon mustard and salt and pepper to taste, and a fruity olive oil (traditionally, 3-to-1 proportion of oil to vinegar--however, I prefer less oil). Crumble with a good gorgonzola cheese, and serve cold.

Another Francesca salad, which I had at Francesca al Forno, also in Chicago, was an arugula salad with a sweet balsamic. I created my own modified version, with a 50-50 mix of arugula and mixed baby greens, toasted pine nuts, halved grape tomatoes, and a honey-balsamic (replace mustard in above dressing with honey). I toss all of this together in a salad bowl and top with slices of gorgonzola dolce, a pungent, creamy, sweet gorgonzola, which I came across at Holiday Market in Royal Oak.

These modifications of signature salads from the Francesca restaurants in Chicago have become personal signatures at home. They're far superior to the typical green salads I encounter in most restaurants and homes, and bring fresh, unique flavor to the dinner table.

Photo credit seedsofchange.com

Pallas Restaurant & Lounge, Farmington Hills, Michigan

After dropping Samar off at her brother's house, Todd & I stopped for Chinese at Pallas Restaurant in Farmington Hills. It's a modern, stylish restaurant, with rich brown and black fabrics, bamboo plantings, and a slate water fountain.

They have a terrific menu with a unique take on Cantonese and Szechuan classics. Appetizers include scallion pancakes, seafood spring rolls, and steamed vegetable dumplings. The seafood menu features lyrically-named dishes such as "Triple Fragrance Sizzling Platter," with shrimp, scallops, chicken, and vegetables on a sizzling plate; and crispy shrimp wrapped in phyllo, with broccoli in a champagne sauce. Meat and poultry options include a skirt steak with wild mushrooms in oyster sauce; lamb curry with sauteed leeks; and stir-fried chicken with asparagus and shiitake in spicy garlic sauce.

We selected two dishes: Hunan Calamari, in a black bean sauce with baby corn and broccoli, and sauteed eggplant spears in spicy garlic sauce with scallions and red bell pepper. Accompanied with steamed white rice, each dish was hearty and savory, with the perfect amount of heat. The calamari was a tad overcooked, and we decided that we'd rather have opted for Hunan Scallops instead.

Pallas' dessert menu includes the typical Chinese restaurant fare of ice cream and sherbet, but also a delicious banana spring roll, served warm with vanilla ice cream and drizzle of chocolate. No dessert for us; I'd shared this during a previous meal with my parents, who devoured the sweet delight in short order.

Photo credit pallas-restaurant.com

Cafe Zola, Ann Arbor, Michigan

For the four years we've been together, Todd has warned that his ex-girlfriend (whom he affectionately refers to as his "wife") would be returning from Palestine so they could get married. And, for the four years we've been together, I'd always rolled my eyes and played along until....

Last week, when he confirmed that Samar ("Summer") would soon be arriving for a holiday, and would be coming to see him (as well as her brother). After college, she had returned to her homeland of Palestine, and they hadn't seen each other in over twelve years. While I obviously viewed this as no threat, I still did not know what to expect--would she be a ball-bustin', over-opinionated witch? Would I be able to deal with them mooning over their young romance?

Rather, when we arrived to pick her up at her brother's home in Belleville, I met one of the nicest, smartest, most independent women I had ever encountered. She's lived under the violence and chaos of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, subjected to checkpoints and chronic underemployment. Her current job is on hold, expected to resume in November.

We enjoyed a beautiful, Indian Summer day walking the streets of downtown Ann Arbor (where they frequently spent their days), recalling their time together. We sat down to eat at Cafe Zola in Ann Arbor, a cute, artsy, brick-wally brunch place named after French writer, Emile Zola, featuring a Mediterranean-themed menu with a few Turkish specialties.

The brunch menu was full of delicious options: savory crepes with fresh tomato or ratatouille, and sweet crepes with nutella or fresh fruit; omelettes with sauteed mushrooms or homemade Polish sausage; waffles with flavored butters or brandied cherries and chocolate. It was a stellar selection, and I hope to return again soon.

Todd ordered a gorgeous Omelette Provencale, frittata-style, with sauteed mushrooms and caramelized onion. I went the lunch route with a Norwegian salmon burger, which arrived with pomme frites and a spiced mayo. I happily devoured my sandwich and savored every bite of my fries. Samar, perhaps, seemed disappointed with her order: a grilled chicken sandwich, marinated with lemon and herb, and served on a crusty Italian roll with vegetable chips. While the chicken looked tasty, the bread seemed too hard and crusty for a sandwich.

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch on the sidewalk, allowing the two of them to chainsmoke after lunch, like the locals they encountered on a trip to Paris, years ago. We had wonderful conversation, recalling their days long past, and exchanging views on the world's events. It was fun to see another part of Todd's life, and I think he enjoyed finally having his "husband" meet his "wife."

Now, if I can just get him to forget his hair-brained plot to get me to impregnate her with my baby, so he can have a piece of both of us to love. Then, they could sue me for custody and the house, and leave me out on the street, hawking my famous crabcakes.

Photo credit cafezola.com

D'Amato's, Royal Oak, Michigan

Friday night, John and I welcomed Todd home after his first full week away with dinner at Royal Oak standby, D'Amato's. Normally, it's good for nice evening out--low key, great food, good service, comfortable wood-paneled decor, and a wall of windows looking out at the bustle of Royal Oak.

For some reason this time, while everything else was as impeccable as usual, the food failed to deliver. Maybe it's because we strayed from our normal fallback options: a perfectly cooked dish of pasta (the "Napoletana," spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and basil, or the Penne with wild mushrooms in a madeira sauce), woodfired pizza (Four Cheese, Tuscan), or a bowl of steamed mussels (special menu only). Their Beef Carpaccio appetizer, and entrees such as macadamia encrusted Chilean Sea Bass and Vegetable Napoleon, also rarely disappoint.

Though John did get a delicious Asparagus & Sundried Tomato pizza with wild mushrooms, prosciutto, and goat cheese, Todd and I each elected instead for an order of crabcakes and a salad. He went for the "D'Amato's Salad" with red wine vinaigrette, and I for their Green Bean Salad with toasted walnuts and crumbled gorgonzola. They were okay, but not spectacular, and my salad was not what I was expecting--I thought it would come out similar to the haricot vert salad I'd had at Mia Francesca in Chicago: simply, blanched young green beans, diced tomato, crumbled gorgonzola, and balsamic vinaigrette. The D'Amato's version was heavy on mixed greens, light on the beans.

The crab cakes, served "East Coast style," with mixed greens and a spicy remoulade, were too bready for our tastes. Bread (or breadcrumbs) is necessary to help bind the cakes, but they should be heavy with crabmeat, light on filler. These had just a hint of crab flavor, flecks of red bell pepper, and too much mushiness from the bread. According to Taste author, David Rosengarten, the perfect crab cake should be simply be crab, a little bread crumb, some mayonnaise, and seasoning. Technically, my recipe lifted from the Martha cookbook, with chopped bell pepper and scallions, is overkill. But it's still good.

Overall, not a disaster, but less than stellar. The wine was fruity and rich, and I had a great dessert coffee spiked with Amaretto and a hint of orange. We've had much better meals there, so I'm willing to cut some slack. It's always been an enjoyable experience at this Royal Oak mainstay, so I'll always return. But next time, I'll go for old reliable calamari or a woodfired pizza.

Photo credit damatos.com

Vegetarian Breakfast Casserole

In anticipation of the U of M-MSU game this weekend, my department hosted its 4th Annual Big 10 Tailgate celebration this past Thursday, with a potluck breakfast, a catered, barbecue lunch, a football pool, and loads of company logo-ed prizes that none of us really needed.

I volunteered to bring in a breakfast casserole. In my infinite pretentiousness, I couldn't just make any ORDINARY breakfast casserole, with white bread, scrambled egg, shredded cheddar, and crumbled sausage. No, I had to go and use freshly-baked loaves from the new Strawberry Moon Bakery in downtown Ferndale. And, instead of the usual cheddar and sausage, I used a smoked gouda, and a mixture of sauteed fresh vegetables.

Although the smokiness of the gouda didn't carry through as strongly after baking, I still got a few compliments and requests for the recipe. I used a basic recipe from my newly-acquired Gourmet cookbook for a Spinach and Parmesan Strata, and modified it just a bit:

VEGETARIAN BREAKFAST CASSEROLE

2 medium red onions, julienned
2 red bell peppers, julienned
1 pkg. cremini mushrooms, sliced
3 c. arugula
olive oil
salt & pepper to taste
8 c. day-old bread cubes (approx. 1") I used a combination of 2/3 wheat and 1/3 rye
3 c. shredded smoked gouda or smoked mozzarella
9 eggs
2 T. dijon mustard
2+3/4 c. whole milk


Sautee first three vegetables in olive oil, adding salt & pepper to taste, until tender. Remove from heat and toss in a very large bowl with arugula. Add bread cubes and smoked cheese; toss until thoroughly combined.

Combine eggs, mustard, and milk in a large measuring cup or mixing bowl with a spout.

Turn bread mixture into a lightly greased, 3-quart baking dish. Carefully pour egg mixture over, making sure to saturate the top layer of ingredients. If desired, sprinkle with additional shredded cheese.

Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven, 45-55 minutes, until golden and puffed. Let stand 5 minutes before serving.

Photo credit csun.edu

Olde Peninsula Brewpub, Kalamazoo, Michigan

This was Todd's first "official" weekend away, having taken a new job just outside of Kalamazoo. He'll spend workweeks at his sister's in K'zoo, then we'll alternate visiting each other on weekends. Since he'd only been there a week, I made the first of our cross-county trips to see each other.

Having been to K'zoo only once before, I was looking forward to a night on the town with Todd, along with his sis and her family. Since we had her 19-month-old in tow, we needed to find a place that would be loud enough to counterbalance any potential outbursts from the tyke.

We decided on the Olde Peninsula Brewpub in Downtown Kalamazoo's Haymarket district. It was located in a charming, historic building, with a typical woody, brewpub decor. Like any bar on a Saturday night, the "OP" was jammed: crunchy granola families, Western Michigan University students, and teenage kids on Homecoming dates.

Our evening was off to a great start: less than 5 minutes after waiting at the bar with one of those loathesome chain-restaurant pagers, it lit up, signalling that our table was ready. Given it was 7:30pm and almost bedtime for the 19-month-old, dinner was beginning to look like a quick in-and-out, until....

Ten minutes at the table and, still, no server. Fortunately, that gave us enough time to decide on drink and dinner orders, so we would be prepared. Our server finally arrived and ONLY offered to take drink orders. The restaurant was slammed, so we cut some slack. I ordered one of their Fall brew specials, the "Jack-o-Lantern," a combination of house-made porter and pumpkin ale. Todd had a Black & Tan, his sis a virgin strawberry daiquiri, and her husband, an iced tea.

Twenty minutes later, our drinks arrived. Todd's Black & Tan was more "Black & Black," but the rest of the drinks were fine. My Jack-o-Lantern was actually pretty tasty, with a rich, dark coffee flavor and a hint of pumpkin spice in the background. The daiquiri was hot pink, thick and smoothie-like, and the iced tea was iced tea. After another brief disappearance, our server returned to take our dinner orders.

I opted for a veggie burger, topped with sauteed mushrooms and melted swiss. Todd ordered a fried perch sandwich, with salad instead of fries. His sis went for the stuffed flounder, and her husband the Old Peninsula Chicken, a marinated chicken breast atop sauteed spinach. An hour later, my head pounding and knee bouncing up and down, our orders arrived--but only two were correct. Todd's perch sandwich arrived as simply perch with fries, while his brother-in-law's chicken with spinach translated into a chicken breast sandwich.

I immediately launched into a tirade with our server. The house manager arrived within minutes, and we let loose: an hour and a half later, our orders still came out wrong. The chicken breast, on top of being completely the wrong order, could barely pass as a chicken tender. And Todd's fish sandwich arrived instead as fish and chips. After profusely apologizing and offering a gift certificate for a future visit, he instead accepted our counter-request to simply not charge us for this disastrous dinner.

Famished, I ravenously downed my veggie burger, while the rest of the table nibbled at their less-than satisfactory meals. The 19-month-old, fortunately, crashed out as we awaited our orders--oblivious to the debacle that had occurred. Vindicated, we called it a night on the Olde Peninsula, and vowed not to return.

Photo credit beerme.com

Shilla Korean & Japanese Restaurant, Clawson, Michigan

Whenever we make a Home Depot run, it is a requisite that we time it just right that we have to go out to dinner afterwards. Sometimes, it's a cheap trip to Baja Fresh or a belly-filling stop at Rexy's Bangkok Cuisine. Last night, when we went to order a new storm door at the Depot in Royal Oak, we swung down to Clawson for a little Korean food.

Shilla has become a regular in our repetoire of local favorites. It is stylishly decorated, with one dining room set off as a typical sushi bar, and the other room as a traditional Korean restaurant, complete with tableside grills.

On past occasions, I have opted for the sushi-bar side, typically ordering a selection of their vegetarian rolls--cucumber with preserved plum, spicy asparagus, etc. But usually, we take the grill side, but never order the grill (that's reserved for dinners with my family, which we LOVE). Todd sticks with his old standby, Dol Sot Bibimbap, which is a traditional Korean rice dish, loaded with fresh vegetables and, in his case, tofu instead of beef, served in a sizzling stone pot. It's topped with a fried egg, which you stir into the rice and vegetables to create a creamy sauce. When combined with the spicy red condiment served with, it becomes a deliciously satisfying meal in itself. Last night, instead of my usual Udon noodle soup with tempura shrimp, I bypassed the soup and just ordered a plate of the shrimp tempura. It was accompanied by a variety of tempura-battered vegetables. It was a deep fried extravaganza, which I loved, but would probably never order again, unless it's shared with a large group. Holy moly, was it too much!

Thankfully, every meal is preceded by an array of traditional condiments in little white bowls--kimchi (a spicy, fermented cabbage pickle that smells like feet), cold steamed bean sprouts drizzled with sesame oil, a potato salad, surprisingly sweetened with bits of fresh apple, and about a half dozen others. When eaten with meat or fish or, in my case, tempura shrimp, it helps to cut the "meatiness" of the food with a cool, crisp, freshness.

As we learned a couple of trips ago, it's good to find a favorite and stick with it. I'm all for being adventurous when it comes to food, but we learned our lesson last time when we ordered the seafood hotpot: a metal pot boiling on a hotplate at our table, filled to the brim with shrimp, mussels, clams, crab pieces, and lobster, in a spicy seafood broth. It was the most stressful meal I had ever encountered, all that seafood gurling in our hot, sweaty faces, so we rushed through dinner just to get out of there! Lesson learned: Shilla is a terrific restaurant, but do a little research--or at least invite a friend who's fairly familiar with Korean cuisine--before you stray from the basics.

Bastone, Part Deux

Tuesday night, I invited my folks to stop by the house and check out my newly re-finished hardwood floors (amazing!). Usually, the only way I get them to drive ALL THE WAY out to Ferndale from Sterling Heights is by giving them the promise of food. See, in their parts, they're hard pressed to find ANY restaurant (other than a mom-and-pop coney island) that doesn't belong to some chain: Ruby Tuesday, Olive Garden, Don Pablo's...you get the drift. So, whenever they come over here, they know they're in for something different: big, greasy food at Polish Village in Hamtramck, stylish Korean at Shilla, upscale Mediterranean at Assaggi.

This time, I wanted to introduce them to the wonders of Belgian cuisine at Bastone. I knew they would enjoy the steamed mussels, but I didn't realize how much. They were in awe of the open, classy decor of the place, the total feeling that they were in a completely different city outside of Metro Detroit. I explained that the best way to eat there, if you're not particularly starving, is to order a bunch of appetizers and share. So, my dad ordered their house salad, which was loaded with fresh greens tossed in a sherry vinaigrette, and topped with caramelized pecans. By the way he raved, you would've thought it was the best salad in the word--I think it was the pecans. My mom had a bowl of the potato-leek soup, thick and hearty, with a smoky background from the bacon. I had just enjoyed the same during my last visit, the week prior. I ordered for the table Bastone's signature steamed mussels, fried calamari (a family staple), and pomme frites, and my dad and I each had a pint of the beer special, a nice Belgian brown ale.

OMG, my parents DEVOURED everything! Todd had called during his break from class, and asked that I bring him home whatever leftovers we had. There were none to be had! My parents loved every bite of that meal, and I was so happy to introduce them to something new. I could tell, as my mom kept asking for directions from their own house, and was busily trying to figure out particular landmarks so they wouldn't miss it ("Okay, it's on the opposite corner from Barnes & Noble, right?").

I stopped by CVS on the way home and picked up a half-gallon of Stroh's Sanders Bumpy Cake Ice Cream for Todd, as an apology for coming home empty handed from Bastone.

Bastone, Royal Oak, Michigan

Todd and I celebrated our friend, John's, Memorial Weekend visit by dining with him at one of my local favorites, Bastone. Having opened around two years ago in a '30s-era building on Main, Bastone is a stylish, noisy, Belgian-style brasserie, specializing in European fare and house-brewed beers. Todd and I each began with a pint of the evening's special beer, a Belgian brown that has become of one my personal favorites to date, while John had a glass of the house Chardonnay. We shared a cheese plate, featuring an aged gruyere, a creamy blue, and some other unidentified, but still tasty, third. Usually, my immediate move is to order their classic steamed mussels and pomme frites, but I opted for a different direction, with a bowl of hearty, bacon-laden potato-leek soup, accompanied by a plate of crisp-fried artichoke hearts. Todd opted for the fish and chips, a departure from his usual order of seafood "waterzooi," a traditional Belgian seafood stew. John ordered one of Bastone's popular "tartes," a crispy pizza topped with bacon, herbs, and caramelized onions. As always, Bastone did not fail to satisfy, and will therefore remain toward the top of my list of local dining faves. Photo from michiganmenu.com

Maria's Front Room, Ferndale, Michigan

During a long week of not being able to cook due to some minor construction at home, Todd and I headed out for a quiet dinner last Thursday at Maria's Front Room, a Ferndale mainstay on 9 Mile. It's a totally old school Italian restaurant, complete with plastic vines weaving through trellises, faux stone-paneled walls, and travel posters of Sicily. Don't get me wrong--it all adds to the homey charm of the place. However, the best thing about Maria's is its menu. With typical Italian restaurant fare--speidini, fried calamari, linguini with clam sauce, garlic bread--Maria's does a terrific job of transporting you back to the days before manufactured, taste-free chain restaurants like Olive Garden and Papa Vino's took over the American restaurant stage. We each ordered a glass of the house-made red wine--if I understand correctly, while Maria's does not have a liquor license, they are still permitted to make their own wine. We then shared a classic Caesar Salad--dressing good, lettuce crisp, but dock a couple of points for soggy croutons. Then, after a recent, POOR pizza experience at neighboring Como's Restaurant, we opted for Maria's round, thin-crust pizza with broccoli, artichoke hearts, black olives, sun-dried tomatoes, and mushrooms. Props for the VERY fresh veggies, unlike Como's bits of frozen spinach and canned mushrooms. We finished dinner by sharing a HUGE cannoli, with its crispy shell, overflowing with ricotta cream. Dock another point for garnishing with chocolate chips in place of the traditional crushed pistachios. Aside from that, however, it was heaven. We left in the midst of an evening deluge, satisfyingly full from another wonderful meal at Maria's. Photo from AOL CityGuide restaurant review

Forks, Spoons, and Filipinos

Apparently, pigs know how to eat with a fork and spoon. Or, so says an elementary school principal in Montreal, Canada. Seven-year-old Luc Cagadoc has found himself at the center of an international brouhaha, involving a recent incident in which he was reprimanded by a lunch monitor at school for eating in the customary Filipino style, with a fork and a spoon.

When his mother, a recent immigrant from the Philippines, called the principal to complain, he replied, "If your son eats like a pig he has to go to another table because this is the way we do it and how we're going to do it every time."

Now, supposedly, Luc has been disciplined previously for disruptive behavior, so I'm not 100% certain that the "pig" comment was because of the way he eats or the way he may act up in the lunch room. But according to Luc's mother, the principal told her that, in Canada, one should "eat the way Canadians eat"--and that has led to a wave of protests across the ocean from Canada to the Philippines. The apparent comparison of Filipinos to pigs has raised an uproar among Filipinos in both hemispheres, and it doesn't seem to be letting up anytime soon.

Schools have such bigger problems to deal with, that this whole incident is utterly ridiculous. Given that ketchup is now considered a vegetable by school lunch terms, they need to quit worrying about how kids eat and focus more on what they eat.

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http://www.westislandchronicle.com/pages/article.php?noArticle=6063