Sunday, November 12, 2006

Epic Bistro, Kalamazoo, Michigan


One of the reasons for my going to K'zoo this weekend instead of Todd coming home was the fact that he'd gotten tickets to see bluesy-rocky musician, Jonny Lang. As we approached Kalamazoo's State Theater Saturday night, we saw that the show had been postponed, due to Jonny's illness. The show is expected to reschedule for January, so we'll wait to see how that pans out.

Fortunately for us, that freed up the evening for us to enjoy a long, leisurely dinner, rather than breeze through our meal in order to make the show in time. We decided upon Epic Bistro, which was down street from the theater. We had noticed this chic, contemporary restaurant during a previous walk through downtown's outdoor pedestrian mall--exposed brick, rich wood paneling, Mission-style chandeliers. Throughout were multiple wine cases, featuring dozens of wines with which to enjoy a meal.

Not having made reservations, we were still seated fairly quickly. Granted, it was in a smaller room separate from the main dining room, but it was still just as nice. Our server, Lucas, brought us menus and the wine list, and we each decided to try the evening's "Bin 359" features: Todd, a 2004 Simonsig Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa, and I, a red 2004 Juan Gil Monastrell from Spain. I passed on trying the Sauvignon Blanc in favor of savoring my Monastrell. I know nothing about wines, but I know what I like. This was rich and spicy, with a strong fruity taste. Todd ended up ordering a glass of it himself, later during dinner.

Epic Bistro's menu is divided into four main sections: Small Plates, Soups/Salads, Wood Fired Pizzas, and Large Plates. We decided to order a few Small Plates and share them for our dinner: the Grilled Cumin-rubbed Lamb Chops, served with mango chutney and quinoa rice pilaf; a Redskin Potato Tart, with layered potatoes, spinach, artichoke hearts, provolone, and pesto in a flaky crust; Salmon Wellington, in a crisp puff pastry with shiitake mushrooms and a sun-dried tomato and caper butter; and Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, stuffed with bleu cheese, roasted peppers, and served with white balsamic vinaigrette and fresh peaches. Priced between $8.95 and $10.95, all of our selections were very good, with the exception of the Salmon Wellington. I was really excited by the concept, but execution left something to be desired. I'm not certain if this is indicative of all of the Wellingtons they prepare, but ours last night tasted rather fishy. We wondered if perhaps, because the fish was to be wrapped in pastry, that they used less desirable cuts than would be served alone.

We also tried the featured soup, a thick, creamy Seafood Chowder flavored with chorizo and chock full of potatoes and carrots. Unfortunately, whatever seafood was used was not clearly discernable, except, perhaps, crabmeat. It was good, but I've had better. Also available was a Tomato Cream Soup, and a handful of salads, including a Belgian Endive Salad with bleu cheese, honeyed pecans, and cherry compote. Rounding out the rest of the menu were wood-fired pizzas, including Thai Chicken and Roasted Portobello, and entrees from the "Large Plates" menu: Filet Mignon with truffle butter, Braised Lamb Shank, Grilled Duckbreast, and Sauteed Shrimp, Scallops, and Mussels with House-Made Linguini.

We were so full from our small plates that we opted out on dessert--a very rare occurrence, especially in my case. However, the menu featured a Scharffen Berger Chocolate Brownie with Port Syrup and Vanilla Ice Cream, and a Pistachio Bread Pudding with Spumoni Gelato and Caramel Sauce. I was so disappointed not to share at least one dessert, but for once, I realized my limits. Next time.

Salmon Wellington aside, Epic Bistro gets high marks for its very inspired menu and delicious food. On top of that, our service was almost impeccable, so I know that quality service does exist in Kalamazoo (in fact, Lucas let me take home a copy of the menu, which was very helpful in writing this review). The restaurant is part of the Millennium Restaurant Group, with sister restaurants throughout Kalamazoo and Portage. One of them, The Union, is right down the street--perhaps that will be on the list for my next visit.

For more information, visit www.millenniumrestaurants.com

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