Pre-Thanksgiving Thoughts

For the first time in over five years, I will not be hosting Thanksgiving for my family. It's been here at Farmdale for the past three years since moving in, and prior to that, I'd always prepped in my tiny Detroit kitchen and finished off at my parents' house.

But this year, having finished off some recent renovation at their house, my brother and his wife have offered to host both sides of the family for Thanksgiving dinner. And I, being the ever-so-gracious person that I am, acquiesced.

But, I have not gone away without any assignments: my sis-in-law called me last night to ask me to make a couple of her favorites from my repetoire. So, this year, I will be making fresh cranberry sauce and a sweet potato mash topped with pecan streusel.

It's been a few years since I improvised those, so I hope I can replicate them this time around. Stay tuned!

Photo credit: worldcommunitycookbook.org

Top Chef 2, Episode 5, "Social Service"

Twelve contestants remain, having been spared last week from the chopping block due to a technicality. This week's episode began with some debate over the judges' decision not to send anyone home. Betty defended herself over and over that her mistake was due to a misunderstanding of the rules, while others felt it was an unfair call not to send her home. While cameraderie seemed fairly strong last episode, it appears that alliances have since been formed: Josie and Marisa have formed a close bond, while Betty and Mia--despite the fact it was Mia that called out Betty's indiscretion--seemed to ally themselves based on their similar culinary points-of-view.

Padma, joined by guest judge, Michelle Bernstein of Michy's in Florida and Social Restaurants in California, announced this week's Quickfire Challenge: to create a dish using "leftovers." Of course, not the leftovers you and I are thinking, but those random cuts of meat that are "left over" from butchering. The counter was piled with hearts and heads and tails and feet and all sorts of awful offal. Contestants with high end restaurant experience tended to be more familiar with such products and set off to devise their creations.

Mia turned back to her Southern roots and offered up Braised Pigs Feet with Cornbread, while Marcel went German and created a Sweetbread Schnitzel with a sauce containing pig's blood. Carlos prepared Sauteed Sweetbreads with herbs; Marisa served up Beef Cheeks over Papardelle; Frank presented an Arugula-Sweetbread Tart; Mike topped his Veal Tail and Tongue Stew with toasted bread and fried egg; and Betty made a Fish Head-Beef Cheek in Brodo.

Michelle Bernstein was pleasantly surprised by most of the contestants’ preparations, but still managed to identify two that failed to satisfy: Marisa’s Seared Lamb Kidneys had not been soaked or cleaned properly and, therefore, tasted terribly, while Josie’s Oxtail in Carrot Broth with Cracklings was simply too tough and inedible.

On the up side, Ilan’s Almond-Dusted Sweetbreads with Champagne Vinegar Sauce and Cliff’s Braised Oxtail were praised for their high quality and flavor. But, it was Sam’s Sweetbread Beignets flavored with Chinese 5-Spice that won this week’s Quickfire.

The next day, the contestants gathered at off-site for their next Elimination Challenge, at Social Restaurant in Hollywood. Their task: to create a six-course tasting menu for a party of 60, hosted by actress Jennifer Coolidge (best known for her kooky blonde roles in “Best in Show,” “Friends,” and “American Pie,” as Stiffler’s Mom). Again, the theme for this challenge was “leftovers,” but this time, it really meant leftovers: they were to create their menu from food that remained from the previous evening’s dinner.

The contestants were informed that they were to choose a partner and work in pairs—each pair would draw knives to determine which of the six courses they would be preparing. Responsible for Course 1 would be Frank and Marcel, an odd coupling to say the least. After being asked by Frank to partner up with him, Marcel likened the moment to “going to prom” with someone you don’t particularly want to go with. Course 2 went to Cliff and Sam, who showed some promise for a perfect partnership. Course 3 was designated to what seemed to be another odd coupe, Mike and Ilan. However, over the past few challenges, they had formed quite a friendship themselves. Mia and Betty drew Course 4, Marisa and Josie took on Course 5, and rounding out on Course 6 were Carlos and Elia.

As they raced back to the Social kitchen, Mia and Betty immediately tried to rally the troops and discuss the overall menu, but to no avail. The remaining teams set off on their own missions, without regard to what any of the other teams were doing. As soon became evident, their failure to plan caused a few bumps along the way.

Course 1: Not without some argument, Marcel and Frank put out a Salmon Duo, consisting of salmon tartare and salmon mousse. From proper butchering technique to whose sauce was better, these two butted heads all throughout the entire challenge. At the dining table, the judges criticized the textural combination of the two dishes, referring to it simply as “bad.”

Course 2: Working like a well-oiled machine, Cliff and Sam paired up a Seared Scallop and Foie Gras with Fig Puree, which drew raves from the entire room.

Course 3: The seemingly odd pairing of Mike and Ilan won over the crowd with their Seafood Paella topped with a Sauteed Soft-shell Crab.

Course 4: The judges panned the Duck Napoleon with Mashed Sweet Potatoes prepared by Mia and Betty, for their overcooked duck and unnecessary puff pastry.

Course 5: Josie and Marisa made a technical error by offering an intermezzo so late in the menu. They had prepared an “Awakening Trio” to cleanse the palate: Pineapple Salad, Apple-Fennel Salad, and Soup of Coconut, Lime, and Prickly Pear. The judges felt the two had completely missed the mark—the three dishes seemed disconnected and did anything but cleanse their palates. On top of this, their poor decision to offer a palate cleanser as a 5th course was simply a wrong move.

Course 6: Elia and Carlos served up a dessert trio, consisting of Pineapple Sorbet, Mascarpone-Phyllo Napoleon, and a Pomegranate-Orange Juice Shooter with Basil. In addition to criticizing the disconnectedness of the components, the judges also complained that the pomegranate juice tasted as if it had sat out for two days.

At the judges’ table, two teams were called out for their excellent preparations: Ilan/Mike and Cliff/Sam. Though the judges expressed some disappointment that the contestants had failed to use some of the better “leftover” ingredients—duck confit (one of my favorite things in the world!), purple artichokes—they proclaimed these teams’ dishes as the most superior. In the end, it was the combination of Ilan and Mike, with their paella and soft-shell crab combination that won the honors, and Ilan was singled out for the added bonus: to work with Michelle Bernstein in the upcoming South Beach Food and Wine Festival.

Called next to the judges table were the combinations of Betty/Mia, Carlos/Elia, and Josie/Marisa. On top of being unnecessary, Betty and Mia’s puff pastry was criticized for being undercooked—a pet peeve of Tom Colicchio. Carlos and Elia were admonished for their poor judgment in putting out three really bad desserts instead of using their time and resources to put together one really good dessert. Finally, Josie and Marisa’s failed attempt at an intermezzo garnered the most criticism—not only did they technically not cook anything, but the product they put out simply did not work. And for this lapse in judgment, the team of Josie and Marisa was told to pack their knives and go. In her exit interview, Josie railed and railed that she had the talent to make it to the end, but because of one bad judgment call, she was out. I guess we’ll never know.

Epic Bistro, Kalamazoo, Michigan

One of the reasons for my going to K'zoo this weekend instead of Todd coming home was the fact that he'd gotten tickets to see bluesy-rocky musician, Jonny Lang. As we approached Kalamazoo's State Theater Saturday night, we saw that the show had been postponed, due to Jonny's illness. The show is expected to reschedule for January, so we'll wait to see how that pans out.

Fortunately for us, that freed up the evening for us to enjoy a long, leisurely dinner, rather than breeze through our meal in order to make the show in time. We decided upon Epic Bistro, which was down street from the theater. We had noticed this chic, contemporary restaurant during a previous walk through downtown's outdoor pedestrian mall--exposed brick, rich wood paneling, Mission-style chandeliers. Throughout were multiple wine cases, featuring dozens of wines with which to enjoy a meal.

Not having made reservations, we were still seated fairly quickly. Granted, it was in a smaller room separate from the main dining room, but it was still just as nice. Our server, Lucas, brought us menus and the wine list, and we each decided to try the evening's "Bin 359" features: Todd, a 2004 Simonsig Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa, and I, a red 2004 Juan Gil Monastrell from Spain. I passed on trying the Sauvignon Blanc in favor of savoring my Monastrell. I know nothing about wines, but I know what I like. This was rich and spicy, with a strong fruity taste. Todd ended up ordering a glass of it himself, later during dinner.

Epic Bistro's menu is divided into four main sections: Small Plates, Soups/Salads, Wood Fired Pizzas, and Large Plates. We decided to order a few Small Plates and share them for our dinner: the Grilled Cumin-rubbed Lamb Chops, served with mango chutney and quinoa rice pilaf; a Redskin Potato Tart, with layered potatoes, spinach, artichoke hearts, provolone, and pesto in a flaky crust; Salmon Wellington, in a crisp puff pastry with shiitake mushrooms and a sun-dried tomato and caper butter; and Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, stuffed with bleu cheese, roasted peppers, and served with white balsamic vinaigrette and fresh peaches. Priced between $8.95 and $10.95, all of our selections were very good, with the exception of the Salmon Wellington. I was really excited by the concept, but execution left something to be desired. I'm not certain if this is indicative of all of the Wellingtons they prepare, but ours last night tasted rather fishy. We wondered if perhaps, because the fish was to be wrapped in pastry, that they used less desirable cuts than would be served alone.

We also tried the featured soup, a thick, creamy Seafood Chowder flavored with chorizo and chock full of potatoes and carrots. Unfortunately, whatever seafood was used was not clearly discernable, except, perhaps, crabmeat. It was good, but I've had better. Also available was a Tomato Cream Soup, and a handful of salads, including a Belgian Endive Salad with bleu cheese, honeyed pecans, and cherry compote. Rounding out the rest of the menu were wood-fired pizzas, including Thai Chicken and Roasted Portobello, and entrees from the "Large Plates" menu: Filet Mignon with truffle butter, Braised Lamb Shank, Grilled Duckbreast, and Sauteed Shrimp, Scallops, and Mussels with House-Made Linguini.

We were so full from our small plates that we opted out on dessert--a very rare occurrence, especially in my case. However, the menu featured a Scharffen Berger Chocolate Brownie with Port Syrup and Vanilla Ice Cream, and a Pistachio Bread Pudding with Spumoni Gelato and Caramel Sauce. I was so disappointed not to share at least one dessert, but for once, I realized my limits. Next time.

Salmon Wellington aside, Epic Bistro gets high marks for its very inspired menu and delicious food. On top of that, our service was almost impeccable, so I know that quality service does exist in Kalamazoo (in fact, Lucas let me take home a copy of the menu, which was very helpful in writing this review). The restaurant is part of the Millennium Restaurant Group, with sister restaurants throughout Kalamazoo and Portage. One of them, The Union, is right down the street--perhaps that will be on the list for my next visit.

For more information, visit www.millenniumrestaurants.com

Food Dance Cafe, Kalamazoo, Michigan

Breakfast was first priority upon arriving in Kalamazoo this weekend to visit Todd. I'd gotten up early Saturday and hit the road right away, without so much as a stop for coffee. He suggested Food Dance Cafe, where we had gone for breakfast during my last trip. The service was lackluster, but the food was tasty, so I thought I'd give it another shot. This time around: the service was lackluster, but the food was tasty. At least they're consistent.

Food Dance is located in downtown Kalamazoo--it's a very touchy-feely, granola, organic, all-natural kind of place, with exposed brick along one wall and murals of giant fruits and vegetables on the others. It's very bright and breezy, with high ceilings and exposed ductwork. The cafe prides itself on using local produce and baked goods, and guarantees the quality of its products--as well it should.

Unfortunately, despite the great food, service is unbearable. The last time we went, we waited at least 10 minutes for our server to bring the coffees we'd ordered. We waited so long that I just got up and poured two cups of coffee from the complimentary carafes that were in the waiting area. This time, I was still taking off my jacket when our server came asking for our drink orders. My coffee came fairly quickly, but I was never offered a refill until I had already finished my meal. Having frequented many hip, popular restaurants in Detroit, I'm pretty accustomed to inattentive servers--guess we're not very unique on this side of the state!

Poor service aside, the food was terrific. Todd ordered the Mexican Scramble, which were two eggs scrambled with "New Mexican" sausage (?), black beans, potatoes, onions, and cheese, then topped with ranchero sauce. I had the Woodland Omelette, with sherried mushrooms, green onions, and lots and lots of Swiss cheese. Each was served with crispy home fries and two thick slices of hearty rye bread.

Their menu offers many breakfast classics, from Julia's French Toast made from thick-cut challa, Blueberry Pancakes, Huevos Rancheros, and Fruited Waffles. On the lunch menu were grilled sandwiches like the Zydeco Crab Cake, Reuben Rhumba, and the Saltarello--pesto, roasted peppers, tapenade, artichokes, and provolone on grilled sourdough. It also features cold and open faced sandwiches, quesadillas, salads, burgers, and a great looking mac-n-cheese. The dinner menu features several appetizers, such as Bruschetta and Grilled Halloumi Cheese. Entrees include Sesame-Ginger Wild Salmon, Seared Niman Ranch Sirloin, Portuguese Fish Stew, and a vegetarian Moroccan Squash, with Israeli couscous, artichokes, chickpeas, and feta. Pastas, salads, burgers, and sandwiches round out the rest of the dinner menu. Desserts feature the Cat's Meow: baked flourless chocolate mousse (?) glazed with ganache; and the Sticky Nut Boogie Woogie: Plainwell vanilla ice cream with caramel, whipped cream, and almonds.

Overall, I don't think I could be disappointed with anything I could eat at Food Dance. The menu is creative, inspired, and inventive. Based on two separate experiences, however, I would never be able to commend the service. Inattentiveness is my biggest pet peeve, and our servers each time appeared to be experts. Also, I must comment on the prices. Our breakfasts yesterday cost $8.50 and $7.95 (excluding coffee), respectively, and lunch sandwiches were running $8-9. At dinnertime, sandwiche prices jump up to as high as $11.95! Dinner entrees run between $16 and $22. Granted, Food Dance prides itself on the quality, seasonality, and localness of its ingredients, which typically run higher in cost than the usual ingredients. I'm willing to look beyond that in exchange for a really good meal. However, I'll have to reserve final judgment for my next visit, and see whether service the third time is a charm or a bust.

For more information, visit www.fooddancecafe.com

Top Chef 2, Episode 4: "Less is More"

Episode 4 opened with the remaining twelve contestants ruminating on the growing pressure as the competition rolls on. Following Emily's elimination in last week's TGIFriday's challenge, everyone is recognizing that any one of them could go home at any time. There still seems to be a high level of cameraderie--Betty began this day by planting a kiss on the cheek of each of her male challengers, including her nemesis, Marcel. Four of the contestants--Ilan, Sam, Josie, and Cliff--seem to be coasting along, with Sam and Cliff winning previous Quickfires. From what I can recall, none of them have yet been called to the judges' table on an individual basis--and the times they had been called as part of a team, they were never singled out.

Padma, in another signature sexy outfit, announced this week's Quickfire Challenge: to create an amuse bouche. Loosely translated as "to amuse the mouth," an amuse bouche is smaller than an hors d'oeuvre, meant as a teaser for the meal to come--a chef's "calling card." Eyes began lighting up, as each devised their idea to impress the judges, including guest, Suzanne Goin of Lucques and AOC restaurants. Marcel, for one, knew exactly his direction: an oyster amuse with apples. Padma directed the contestants to begin shopping for their ingredients...but of course, there was a catch: they had to shop from the vending machines in the hallway outside the Kenmore Pro Kitchen! Armed with $10 in quarters, each contestant approached the machines, baffled as to what on earth they possibly could do with the sodas, chips, cookies, and sandwiches inside. Of anyone, Mike was expected to be the winner of this Quickfire, given his good ol' boy personality.

Overall, Goin seemed pretty impressed by what the contestants offered up. Betty prepared a Fromage Frittata and Elia, a Dorito Tostada (Goin joked that the word, "Dorito" sounded so much better coming from Elia). They cleverly transformed otherwise questionable ingredients into some very sophisticated dishes: Sam incorporated potato salad and pickles; Marisa used chicken Caesar Salad, apples, and potato chips; Cliff made use of banana pudding; and Marcel combined cracklings and lemon pudding (from a Hostess fruit pie!). Josie took on a current trend in restaurant technique by offering up a deconstructed amuse bouche--unfortunately, I missed what exactly it consisted of.

Goin identified the bottom two dishes: Mia's Twinkie with Caramelized Banana, which was good, but more dessert than amuse bouche; and Mike's Snicker-Cheeto-Cornut concoction, which looked more like an erect penis than a restaurant amuse. For the second challenge in a row, Mike's whatever attitude was called to question. At the top of Goin's list: Ilan's Deviled Egg with Crispy Salami and Fig Jam, Frank's Ham & Swiss Quiche with Mint Tea Shooter, and the winner of tonight's Quickfire: Carlos' Vegetarian Mini Loaf, featuring Squirt soda, sunflower seeds, and hard-cooked eggs.

Moving on to the elimination round, this week featured another team challenge. After drawing knives and dividing into four teams--Black, Red, White, and Orange--the contestants were advised of their next challenge: to create a three course meal for $100...that could not exceed 500 calories in total! They were to prepare an entree, a side dish, and a dessert to be voted upon by the kids at Camp Glucose--for lack of a better description, fat camp.

On the Black team: Frank, Betty, Marcel (visible discomfort, there); Red: Mia, Mike, Marisa; White: Ilan, Elia, Josie; and Orange: Carlos, Cliff, and Sam. Sam, being diabetic, felt confident his experience with watching his diet could give his team an advantage.

You could see everyone's wheels turning as they set off shopping. Marcel obviously forgot his audience when he suggested Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus. Frank quickly knocked some sense into his Black team when he suggested that nothing beats pizza as a kid favorite. On the Red team, Marisa the pastry chef suggested they attempt a chocolate fudge cake to draw the kids' votes.

When they returned to the kitchen, each team was greeted by a nutritionist who would observe and tally up the calories in each of their menus. The Red team prepared Barbecued Chicken Skewers, Cole Slaw, and Fudge Cake (480 calories); the Black team made a Sausage Pizza, Melon Skewers, and Meringues with Peanut Butter and Banana (440 calories); the White team made Chicken Parmesan, Vegetable Lasagna, and Berry-Yogurt Cheesecake (398 calories); and the Orange team made Spiced Turkey Meatballs, Corn, and Fruit Smoothies (454 calories).

The next day, the teams had to recreate their menus to be served to the kids at Camp Glucose. However, there seemed to be a little bit of departure from the recipes from the day before. Sam immediately observed that some of the teams appeared to be squeezing pretty freely on the squeeze bottles of olive oil. Betty, whose meringues had failed to set up the previous day due to her use of Splenda, tweaked her recipe a bit and reduced her eggs and replaced the Splenda with sugar.

At Camp Glucose, each team was to present their menu to the children, who would then vote on which dishes they wanted to try. The Orange and Red teams each received 5 votes, the White team got 7 votes, and the Black team won a whopping 15 votes! As the children and judges taste-tested the dishes, their reviews came flying: the cole slaw was unimpressive and underseasoned; the vegetarian lasagna was good, but "strange;" the smoothie was too sour; the pizza was an obvious favorite. The best review was not about the food, but rather came from one little girl who said she wanted to "marry the hot diabetic!"

At the judges' table, Padma, Tom, Gail, and Suzanne discussed how easy it is to make food taste good when you are free to use all the fat and sugar you want. So, this Elimination was definitely a challenge for the contestants. Their discussed turn first to the failures: the meatballs were like rocks, the chicken skewers were bland, and the smoothie was hardly considered by the kids to qualify as dessert. On the upside, the pizza was a standout success, and the cheesecake was by far the best dish of the day.

The Black team was called to the table first--they were the winning team, receiving the most votes and the best reviews. Frank, for suggesting the pizza, was named the winner of the challenge. He received Suzanne Goin's book, Sunday Suppers at Lucques, and was invited to collaborate with her on a future menu.

Next, the Orange and Red teams were called to the judges' table. Mike's commitment and professionalism were called out yet again, but at least this time, Mia came to his defense. As for the food, the texture of the Orange team's meatballs was criticized for being too hard, and the Red team's cole slaw for its lack of acidity and flavor.

Sam muttered an aside about his observations of the free-flowing olive oil, which set off a contentious discussion about rule bending While Sam refused to call out any one person in particiular, Mia chimed in with a comment about Betty's revised meringues. These revelations completely stumped the judges, who had no idea what to do.

Tom paid a visit to the kitchen, where the contestants awaited their fate. He raised a point about the accusations and the seriousness of some contestants' failure to follow the rules. Marcel, who was not directly addressed, immediately became defensive when the subject of the olive oil came up. Betty, who was singled out for her meringues, burst into tears while she explained that she misunderstood the rules. She thought, as long as they remained within the 500 calorie requirement, that they would be fine.

In good conscience, the judges could not come to a final decision. As a result, all of the contestants received a free pass on this challenge--while none of them would be told to pack their knives and go, they were to consider themselves "on probation." Later that evening, the contestants took up the matter again. Josie was visibly upset, arguing that it was not fair that certain contestants could fail to follow the rules and remain in the competition. Betty, again in tears, walked out of the room. Then there was Cliff, who sipped on a bottle of Pepto Bismol. Looks like the cameraderie of the group has been a bit shaken. Can't wait to see what happens next.

For judge and contestant bios, recipes, and photos, visit www.bravotv.com

Bon Appetit, December 2006

The much anticipated holiday issue of Bon Appetit arrived in the mail last week. As always, the December issue features menus for both Christmas and Hannukah and, as always, this year's offerings fail to disappoint.

There is a do-ahead Christmas Eve menu inspired by the flavors of New Orleans: Shrimp, Chicken, & Andouille Gumbo, Crab Cakes, and a Caramel Pecan Buche de Noel (I've always wanted to make one of these!). This is followed by a traditional Prime Rib Roast meal with all the trimmings: Yorkshire Pudding, Potato Gratin, Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots, and a Spiced Cranberry-Pear Tart (blech). Finally, a Mediterranean-inspired Hanukkah dinner featuring Roast Chicken with Dried Fruit & Almonds, White Bean Salad flavored with lemon and cumin, a Shredded Zucchini and Carrot Casserole with scallions and dill, and for dessert: Honey-Glazed Doughnuts with Pine Nuts and Raisins. The photo alone makes me want to convert to Judaism for the night...or eight, whatever the case may be (traditionally, fried foods are a staple of the Hanukkah menu to represent the number of nights a single lamp of oil miraculously lasted).

In addition, there is a spread on Christmas cookies which struck me as less-than-inspired: Pistachio-Cherry Mexican Wedding Cakes, dusted with powdered sugar; White Chocolate-Cranberry-Macadamia Cookies; and Chocolate Peppermint Stars. To make up for it, a lesson in chocolate truffle-making, including Bittersweet Chocolate Truffles, and a bizarre, but intriguing, Balsamic Truffle. There is also a brief discussion of the latest trend in chocolatiering: cocoa nibs, crushed bits of cocoa beans combined with smooth chocolate. Sounds like something I'll have to keep an eye out for.

Dorie Greenspan's "Tools of the Trade" offers her recommendations for essential appliances for throwing holiday parties: chafing dishes, multiple-compartment buffet servers, and the newest addition to my own arsenal of cooking appliances: the Maxim food warmer. For whatever reason, I'm completely obsessed with these types of serving ware. Maybe it's my inner caterer.

The magazine offers a number of gift ideas, such as the 12 Gifts of Christmas, which culminates in an $8,000 CornuFe' range, the "cook's version of a Bentley." Cookbook recommendations range from the Green Eggs and Ham Cookbook based on the Dr. Seuss classic to The Improvisational Cook, which shows readers how to take a basic recipe and tweak it into something more. Also, for me, there's The Kitchen Diaries, a chronicle of a year of cooking by Nigel Slater, whose autobiographical Toast made for a great read on my last trip home from London.

The "RSVP" section features a couple of good-looking recipes which I will have to remember: a New Orleans-inspired Osso Bucco (a guilty pleasure I have yet to move myself to cook due to the whole veal issue) and a 6-layer Coconut Cream Cake, one of my greatest dessert obsessions.

Anyway, lots to see and cook in the pages of this month's issue. Can't wait for Gourmet to arrive!

Chestnut Charlotte, Take 1

Okay, here's my first attempt at the ever-elusive Chestnut Charlotte. Searches on Google and Epicurious had pretty much turned up with nothing, so I've improvised, using what little knowledge I have of making charlottes. In retrospect, I think I should have used half the amount of chocolate as I did, but overall, though, not too bad of a first attempt.


CHOCOLATE-CHESTNUT CHARLOTTE

Cinnamon-Sugar Syrup:
1 c. water
1/2 c. sugar
2 cinnamon sticks

Chocolate-Chestnut Cream:
6 oz. semi-sweet chocolate (I used Ghirardelli baking bars)
1 9-oz. jar sweet chestnut puree
1/2 pint heavy cream

2 3-oz. packages lady fingers (the sponge-cake kind, not the crisp Savoiardi)

powdered sugar (optional)


Make syrup: In a small saucepan, combine syrup ingredients, and bring to a boil over low-medium heat. Stir frequently to melt sugar. Lower heat to a simmer and allow syrup to thicken. Remove from heat; cool to room temperature.

Make filling: Melt chocolate in a double boiler (metal bowl over a saucepan of simmering water). Allow to cool one or two minutes. Whisk in entire jar of chestnut puree until thoroughly combined.

In a separate, cold bowl with cold beaters, whip heavy cream until medium-to-stiff peaks form. Fold about 1/4 of whipped cream into the chocolate-chestnut mixture to lighten. Continue folding in the remainder, being careful not to deflate the cream.

Assemble: Line four, 8-oz. ramekins with plastic wrap, leaving enough overhang to cover the top of the charlottes. Line the bottom and sides of each with lady fingers, tearing pieces to fit, but keeping as many intact as possible (pack them in tightly, to keep filling from seeping through). Be sure to leave enough ladyfingers to top the cream, once filled. Brush ladyfingers generously with Cinnamon-Sugar Syrup.

Divide Chocolate-Chestnut Cream among the ramekins (it is possible that not all of it will be used--the rest is cook's treat!). Top filling with remaining ladyfingers and brush with Syrup. Enclose with plastic wrap and stack, using a fifth ramekin (or other weighty container) to stack on the top charlotte.

Refrigerate for at least four hours to allow charlottes to firm up. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired. Makes four servings.

If you have them, use real charlotte molds (small) for a more authentic presentation http://www.amazon.com/CHARLOTTE-STAINLESS-STEEL-Matfer-Bourgeat/dp/B00070M7F4

Top Chef 2, Episode 3, "Low Rent, High Style"

As the contestants gathered in the Kenmore Pro Kitchen for this week's Quickfire Challenge, Padma announced that, although most of the contestants were accustomed to cooking in a fine dining environment, this Quickfire would require them to cook for the "Man on the Street." They were tasked with creating an original ice cream flavor that would be "road tasted" later at the Redondo Beach Lagoon.

While a few of the contestants were obviously thrown off, most of them were quick to accept the challenge. They spent the next two hours and forty-five minutes creating three quarts of ice cream each, and transported them to Redondo Beach to be judged by the passers-by. Ilan's affinity for breakfast flavors inspired him to attempt a Bacon and Waffle Ice Cream, which was surprisingly well-received by the crowd. Betty, who showed a little more of her good showmanship, pushed her "Redondo Berry" concoction, while Josie chose a perfect foil for ice cream--Peach Cobbler--as her signature flavor. Michael called upon Elvis for inspiration, creating a Peanut Butter-Banana Ice Cream. The bottom vote-getters included Emily, with her Lavender and "Calming Chocolate" Ice Cream, Marisa's Vanilla-Peanut Ice Cream, and Marcel's Avocado-Bacon Ice Cream (which was universally panned). Marcel was pompous, as usual, implying the "general public" wasn't sophisticated enough to appreciate his creation. At the top was Carlos, who turned to avocados with his Avocado with Marshmallow and Vanilla Ice Cream, acknowledging that their natural creaminess would preclude the need for eggs, which would require valuable time to cook. Sam, who, incidentally, is diabetic, charmed the crowd with his movie star looks and his Ginger Snap-Citrus Ice Cream. The winner of tonight's challenge, though, was Cliff, with his Crunchy Cookie and Marshmallow Ice Cream. For the second week in a row, Cliff would be immune to elimination.

Next came the Elimination Challenge, featuring guest judge, Stephen Bulgarelli, from the TGIFriday's family of restaurants. Weirdly, I've known Bulgarelli since elementary school--his younger sister, Jill, and I were in the same class since Kindergarten! Such a strange, small world. Anyway, this week's Elimination Challenge was to recall a favorite dish from childhood and update it for adults. The winning creation would be featured on the menu at TGIFriday's restaurants across the country. There was a VERY apparent disinterest among the fine-dining chefs, such as Marcel and Emily, who claimed, "It's not my style," explaining that she'd only ever worked in 4-Star establishments. Even Ilan and Sam seemed less than thrilled, but at least they accepted the challenge willingly. Their recipes would be taste-tested later that day by the men at the South Pasadena Fire Department, the quintessential Everyman.

It was immediately revealed that Mike, who had previously worked at TGIF earlier in his career, would receive no special treatment--good or bad. Regardless, he was confident that his Everyman lifestyle would inspire him to win this challenge.

Ilan created a fantastic-looking Bacon-Smoked Corn side dish, which I may end up borrowing myself. Josie looked to her Asian roots with Barbecued Beef Skewers, while Elia went south-of-the-border with her Fish Tacos. Carlos borrowed from Southern cuisine with his Chicken-Fried Shrimp, and Mia went the comfort food route with Mamma Mia's Meatloaf. Marisa stuck with what she knew, dessert, and created a Strawberry Crisp with Orange Caramel, which the judges proclaimed "awesome."

Marcel hit a snag with his Pork Chops with Mashed Potatoes and Cabbage and Onion Rings, when the deep fryer failed to come to temperature. All the while, he pissed and moaned to no end, blaming the previous user for lowering the temperature. This annoyed the rest of the contestants, with Betty reacting the most vehemently. She called Marcel a "selfish, self-centered, egotistical bastard," to which Marcel reacted completely astonished and appalled. It set of a heated conflict between the two, which was quelled when Betty acknowledged that it was distracting Sam, who was preparing his own creation for the judges.

Sam remained completely focused, creating a unique, vegetarian option: Summer Fruit Salad with Spicy Chimichurri. This was proclaimed "delicious" by the judges, and placed him in the Top 3. Cliff, with his Adult Fish Sticks and Mac-n-Cheese (featuring smoked provolone, gouda, and maple-smoked lardons), landed him at the top, as well. Rouding out the Top 3 was Betty, who hit a snag of her own when the griddle failed to come to temperature. She offered up a Grilled Cheese with Portobello-Roasted Red Pepper Soup (hmm, sounds strangely reminiscent of a very recent post on this blog, no?). In the end, it was Betty, for the second week in a row, who was the winner of this week's Elimination Challenge.

Next to the judge's table were the Bottom 3. Mike's Cheesesteak Sandwiches with Onion Rings were unanimously slammed by the judges--they were greasy, sloppy, overcooked, and completely lacking in flavor. Things actually got a little tense when Mike attempted to defend his creation, causing the judges to question his attitude and his commitment to quality. "How do you screw up a steak sandwich?" was their collective query. Frank, who went the "conceptual" route, creating a bizarre Mushroom Fantasy Salad. Inspired by his daughter's love for Alice in Wonderland, this salad featured a small village of cottages and trees made with mushrooms. Tom wondered if his fantasy was drug-induced, and Gail thought she had stepped into Smurfland. While they appreciated the thought behind it, he judges called the dish "confusing" and "impractical," and scolded that "Food is for eating!" Finally, there was Emily and her Super Slammin' Surf & Turf, which was deemed "inedible," over-salted, and overcooked. She admitted that she was thrown off by the challenge, and her nerves caused her to completely miss on the seasoning. In the end, this mistake caused Emily the challenge, and she was asked to pack her knives and go.

Gourmet, November 2006

The November issue of Gourmet arrived last week and, just like Bon Appetit, features its annual Thanksgiving menus. As has become customary with both magazines, this issue offers not only a traditional Thanksgiving menu, with Roast Turkey and Gravy, roasted Brussels Sprouts with Shallots and Wild Mushrooms, a gratin of roasted vegetables, and a Caramel Pumpkin Pie, but also a pared down Menu for Four, including a Turkey Roulade with Cider Sauce, Roasted Kholrabi and Butternut Squash, and Chocolate-Cranberry Cakes for dessert.

In addition, the issue includes an entire section dedicated to the all-important side dishes which, in many eyes, "make" Thanksgiving. I've been searching for the perfect side dish myself, since Thanksgiving duties this year have fallen upon my brother and his wife. It'll be the first time in three years that I won't be hosting the holiday at my house, but I'm at least going to bring a side dish. There's a great looking Butternut Squash and Creamed Spinach Gratin, which I will most likely try. In addition, there's Red-Wine Braised Cabbage with Onions, Green Beans in Ginger Butter, and a very interesting Chestnut-Potato Puree.

There's also a section on desserts, with recipes for Rum-Raisin Apple Pie, Macadamia Coconut Tart (which I may consider for the Tiki Party I eventually plan to throw one day), and a very tasty-looking S'more Pie (mmmmmmm!). I will probably bring a dessert to my brother's, as well--more than likely, it will be a Sweet Potato Bundt Cake with Brown Sugar Icing, which was the hit of my Southern-themed Thanksgiving Dinner five or six years back.